University of Miami, School of Communication

Search:

Font size: MediumLargeXLarge

Park’s unique plants, trees enrich visitor experience

By EDYNA GARCIA
School of Communication
University of Miami

TWENTYNINE PALMS, Calif.----When thinking of a desert, a flat, sandy, hot terrain comes to mind --- one spotted with scarce cacti, rattlesnakes and lizards and maybe even a few camels.

Though this may be the case for deserts around the world (except for the camel part), Southern California’s Joshua Tree National Park and the Mojave Desert here stand alone.

Home to various plants and animals, including jack rabbits, coyotes, mountain lions and rattlesnakes and cluttered with 5,000-foot mountains and truck-sized boulders and rocks, Joshua Tree National Park is a travel experience unlike any other, especially for photographers, biologists and history buffs.

Old Man prickly pear cacti on display at the Mara Visitor Center at Joshua Tree National Park (Staff photos).

When you first enter the region bordering the 243,000 acres of the desert, you’ll already be taken aback by the picturesque mountains that almost appear to be painted into the horizon. The most incredible part, however, isn’t seeing the mountains for the first time, it’s entering the desert and exploring what lies within.

As you climb the smaller mountains inside the park and take the time to sit and observe the view from a higher elevation, it’s beautiful to see specks of green, yellow and blue scattered throughout the otherwise plain, brown desert.

It is nearly impossible to catch a glimpse of all 813 species of plant life that exist within Joshua Tree National Park. This is largely  because some are microscopic and invisible to the naked human eye and also because Joshua Tree National Park is so large and difficult to see everything in a few days.. 

Yet it is worth the effort to see how life can survive in such rough conditions and even more fascinating to learn how these unexpected plants and trees served human life throughout the more primitive years of the park.

At left, fan palms tower over the Oasis of Mara at Joshua Tree National Park. Below, Joshua trees dot the Mojave Desert landscape. Colorful plants, in the following images, show the varying shapes and types of plants in the park.

“It’s so exciting to visit,” said Steve Lunar, a bio-physicist from nearby Los Angeles. “Each plant has to endure years of evolution to adapt to this environment. Each plant has a story.”

Lunar’s wife, Evelyn Lunar, finished his thought by saying “each species needs a certain element to survive. It’s incredible how they’ve adapted and later served to sustain human life. It’s a life lesson, really.”

This life lesson is especially true when you begin to study these plants carefully, particularly the desert palms, Joshua trees and cacti. These plants not only teach the visitors a “life lesson” about adapting to whatever harsh conditions come your way, but also hold a great deal of historical value.

Joshua Tree’s 75-feet-tall desert palms, scientifically named Washingtonia fillfera, make up five palm oasis throughout the park (and five of the 158 desert palm oasis throughout North America), providing shade and solace during the harsh conditions of the hot season.

Sprouting amongst the fault lines, these palms extract water from the ground through their large trunks and actually take very well to desert fires.

During the more primitive years of the desert, these palm trees served as a food and building resource for the Native American tribe, Chuillas, as they ate the palm fruit and used the fringes to build waterproof dwellings.

Park rangers believe that they would set fire to the palms to increase fruit production and would plant the seeds in promising locations.

The famous park namesake Joshua trees, which survive 75 to 150 years, are an extremely interesting part of desert life.

Not only is an entire park named after them, but they are not exactly the most attractive plants nor are they trees. The Joshua tree, or the Yucca brevifolia, is related to the lily and orchid family, a fact unknown to many visitors, many of whom are more enthralled by its grotesque appearance.

“‘It’s ugly was my first thought,” said rock climber and UCLA student David Bustamante about his first encounter with a Joshua tree. “I thought it was funny that they would call an entire park after these trees because they are just so ugly.”

Perhaps they aren’t quite as attractive as their orchid and lily cousins, but, these plants hold historical value to the region, serving first as useful properties for the Cahuilla Tribe, who would create baskets and sandals out of the tough leaves, while the seeds became a part of their diet.

Later, the plants became valuable to Mormon migrants, who named them after their prophet, Joshua, as the leaves led them west during their passage through the Colorado River.

The famous cacti plants of the desert are also an unusual sight. There’s something about seeing them in their natural habitat rather than in a Taco Bell or Wal-Mart that makes the whole experience new and exciting.

When you first arrive at the park on the northern entrance, you’ll see the various cacti on display at the Visitor Center, accompanied by the pertaining name plate.

Three of my personal favorites included Barrel Cactus (Ferocactus cylindraceus), Mojave Yucca (Yucca shidigera), and what is known as the Old Man Prickly Beard (Opuntia erinacea) mostly because they fulfill a childhood expectation created by too many cartoons.

Though legend has it that one can crack open these cacti to keep hydrated if ever lost, Interpretive Park Ranger Pam Tripp informed us otherwise.

“That’s one of those myths that you can drink the moisture. I mean, you can, but you’ll dehydrate because it’s salty,” she explained

These plants alone make Joshua Tree National Park worthy of a visit, particularly for photographers and true nature lovers. For this reason, amongst many others, it is extremely important to maintain the natural habitat and keep out non-native species, such as the Tamarisk trees that use water needed by wildlife, and the fountaingrass that constantly competes with the native grass.

Joshua Tree National Park is an escape from one’s hectic lifestyle and a crucial part of the Southern California ecosystem. It is a location that should be cared for and valued, if not for the ecosystem, for its beauty and biological or historical value.


If You Go

Joshua Tree National Park is located 74485 National Park Dr., Twentynine Palms, Calif. 92277-3597.

For more information on Joshua Tree National Park, visit http://www.nps.gov/jotr or call the Visitor Center at 760-367-5500.

The Joshua Visitor Center and the Oasis Visitor Center are open all year, 8 a.m to 5 p.m.; the Cottonwood Visitor Center is open all year, 9 a.m. to 3 p.m., and the Black Rock Nature Center open all year, 8 a.m. to 4 p.m.
 
For volunteer information, visit http://www.nps.gov/volunteer or http://www.volunteer.gov/gov or call the park’s volunteer coordinator at 760-367-5528.

Deserted isolation: Both blessing and curse

By EDYNA GARCIA
School of Communication
University of Miami

TWENTYNINE PALMS, Calif. --- When concrete, nightlife and fast-paced days are what you’re used to, the remote and relaxed atmosphere that defines Joshua Tree National Park and Twentynine Palms, Calif., may come as a bit of a culture shock.

What’s more, if you’re used to skyscrapers and, well, pollution, the scenic skyline and crisp and clean air give you a sense of liberation from your otherwise stressful lifestyle.

When people go on vacation, they typically seek an escape from their everyday, to disconnect and rejuvenate. Though resorts and large cities allow you to embark on new experiences, Joshua Tree National Park offers you an adventure.

Once inside Joshua Tree Nstional Park, visitors can drive miles on end without passing another car and without cell phone service. It is imperative that visitors enter the desert properly prepared to face the harsh conditions in case of any emergency (Photos by Edyna Garcia).

“We come out here typically once a month,” said rock climber and UCLA grad student Nick Infante, 24, in reference to he and his friends who travel the 160 or so miles from Los Angeles to the park. “ It’s nice to get away from the city and the people.”

And a true getaway it is --- Joshua Tree National Park, stretching for more than 1,234 square miles of Southern California, takes you into a rocky and mountainous desert, miles away from civilization, not to mention cell phone towers.

Without the cellular ability to even “roam” for service, time in Joshua Tree National Park will be spent free of phone calls, text messages, e-mails and other social media notifications.

“I’ve come out here about once or twice and what I look forward to most is turning off my cellphone and not speaking to anyone but my family members. It’s what makes this trip so valuable to me,” said Adrian Hislop, a 35-year-old attorney and nature lover..

At left, hours into the national park, isolation is evident. For miles, all that is seen are acres of Joshua Trees, desert plants, cacti and mountains. Below, a view from the top of the Hidden Valley mountains. The terrain is an easy climb, more so a trail that leads you up and down the various mountains.

Despite its nine camping grounds such as Cottonwood and Black Rock Canyon, climbing destinations, such as those in the popular Hidden Valley, and tourist attractions, such as Skull Rock, it’s rare to come across people when simply driving through Joshua Tree and exploring its grassy terrain.

The isolation is almost overwhelming. As you step outside your vehicle, you hear nothing but the faint sounds of nature, which sometimes is not heard at all. It’s a silence so powerful it quiets any group of people taking it in for the first time so as to not disturb the peace.

For miles and hours, you can continue to drive through the national park and continue to see landscapes of mountains, rocks, Joshua trees and other desert plants --- and still no single person in sight, including park rangers.

Though the isolation of the desert is clearly a large appeal to tourist and can be considered almost, if not, magical, it is also an imminent threat that is sometimes ignored by those entering the park for the first time.

Despite its location in Southern California, Joshua Tree National Park is still a desert and, during its hot months, reaches brutal temperatures of up to 120 degrees.

When entering Joshua Tree National Park, it’s essential to know your way around, be properly equipped for the dry climate and avoid driving through rough terrain.

Entering the park ill-prepared can result (and has resulted) in fatal consequences.

Park Ranger Joe Zarki recalled the case of a Dutch couple, Augustinus Van Hove, 44 and Helena Nuellet, 38 who paid a visit to Joshua Tree  in August.

While exploring the park, they attempted to drive their rented Dodge Charger through a rough road, resulting in it getting stuck.

In an attempt to survive, they embarked on a four-hour walk down an eight-mile road in 106 degrees, They died of heat exhaustion by nightfall.

Though  death by exhaustion is rare, according to Zarki, it’s important to take the necessary measures to avoid finding yourself in such predicaments, especially since emergency call boxes can be miles away from your location and cell phones have absolutely no service.

“Having a plan, telling someone where you’re going, don’t hike alone if you can avoid it, make sure you have adequate food and water, make sure you have clothing suitable for how long you’ll be out, sunscreen and a hat. That’s what we recommend to people,” explained Zarki.

When you first enter the desert, you often worry about the obvious threats: How do I treat a rattlesnake bite on the spot? How much water should I bring to avoid heat exhaustion? How do I avoid mountain lions?

What visitors don’t ask, however-- and sometimes don’t even think about---is how many people use the isolation of a remote place such as Joshua Tree as a refuge from law enforcement?

In the history of the area that is now the park, outlaws such as cattle rustlers often used the land to hide and live without threats. In fact, it was quite common in places such as the park’s Hidden Valley a century ago.

As said above, visitors will walk around Joshua Tree with a sense of confidence that there is no one in sight for miles on end, but, truthfully, one cannot be so sure. Joshua Tree is full of rocky elevations, caves, mountains and several ins and outs, perfect for anyone looking to hide and not be found.

Skull Rock stands alone with its unique resemblance to a skull and serves as a tourist attraction, located along the main east-west park road.

“I’ve been out here a couple times and, honestly, nothing has ever happened. It wasn’t until I started bringing my kids that I began thinking about the dangers of people,” said Audrey Adames, 31, a mother of two children. “Prior to bringing my little girls out here, I never really thought twice about camping out. Now, I sleep with one eye open. You have to always be careful.”

Though this is a situation you should be more than aware of when entering Joshua Tree National Park, it should not be a deciding factor as to whether or not to visit.

“During June, July and August, over  150 to 200,000 visitors come here and it’s very, very rare that someone has a problem,” explained Zarki.

He later stated that there have only been three accidents in 2011, including a rock climbing accident and the stranded Dutch couple that perished in the heat.

Despite the risks, Joshua Tree National Park is definitely an interesting part of California and well worth the travel.


If You Go

Joshua Tree National Park is located 74485 National Park Dr., Twentynine Palms, Calif. 92277-3597.

For more information on Joshua Tree National Park, visit http://www.nps.gov/jotr or call the visitor’s center at 760-367-5500.

The Joshua Tree Visitor Center and the Oasis Visitor Center are open all year, 8 a.m. to 5 p.m.; the Cottonwood Visitor Center is open all year, 9 a.m. to 3 p.m., and the Black Rock Nature Center is open all year, 8 a.m. to 4 p.m.

For volunteer information, visit http://www.nps.gov/volunteer or http://www.volunteer.gov/gov or call the Park’s volunteer coordinator at 760-367-5528.

Crime in parks? Mostly minor, officials say

Unusual Joshua tree often surprises park visitors

By RACHEL HARTMAN
School of Communication
University of Miami

TWENTYNINE PALMS, Calif. – It reminds me of a makeup brush. If you’ve ever seen the L’Oreal brand Telescopic Explosion mascara, you’ll notice it is distinct, unusual and unlike other mascaras in the industry. The brush on this particular product is in the shape of a ball instead of the traditional approximate inch-long cylinder-shaped brush one will usually find.

I tried to conceal the ridiculousness of the first thing I thought of upon my arrival at Joshua Tree National Park, particularly at the sight of the first Joshua tree I drove past. But the resemblance was uncanny — the Joshua tree looked like the prototype to which the telescopic explosion mascara was copied.

Esther Pang, a visitor from Hong Kong, thought the Joshua tree was a deformed cactus.

Joshua trees (Yucca brevifolia) line a road at Joshua Tree National Park in Twentynine Palms, Calif. (Photos by: Rachel Hartman).

“Then I was like, 'oh, it’s a tree, sort of.' Looks nothing like any tree I’ve ever seen,” Pang reacted upon her first encounter with the Joshua tree, which is the namesake of the national park located near here.

“They look like a bunch of trees that were about to bloom and then just stopped,” visitor Stephanie Beyl said as we drove past more and more trees through the park.

On a more serious note, the Joshua tree is indeed mysterious. At first look, the Yucca brevifolia (the Joshua tree’s proper name) appears to be a palm tree of sorts. When one looks closer, you’ll notice that the tree from the yucca family has bark and although the leaves of the tree look like those of a sort of palm or spikes like a cactus, characteristics of the tree itself determine that it is indeed in the yucca family.

When you see a Yucca brevifolia, you can be assured you are somewhere in the boundaries of the Mojave Desert. Joshua trees are exclusive to the southwestern United States; they can be found in California, Utah, Nevada and some parts of Arizona.

At left, a dead Joshua tree lies in a field at Joshua Tree National Park. Below, one of the more simple Joshua trees in the park with only few branches at Joshua Tree National Park.

“Each tree is totally different,” explained Park Ranger Josh Pelham. “Depends on how the weather treats it. Once they bloom they start branching out.”

Park Ranger Pelham who is stationed at the Oasis Visitors Center of the park commented on why the appearance of Joshua trees is so vast.

Some trees are more intricate with many branches and others are simpler with few branches sometimes far apart. And while some of the Joshua trees are strong and stand straight up, others have wilted or fallen almost completely over.

“It’s the wind. The branches act like huge sails… especially when they start getting branches the wind will tend to act like sails and start bending over,” Pelham said.

Because Joshua trees are top-heavy, the winds in the certain parts of the Mojave Desert cause the branches and leaves to catch the most wind, which is why the trees bend over so much in some cases.

In the depths of the valleys in Joshua Tree National Park, many trees stand straight because of the rock formations that protect the trees and other wildlife. Consequently, due to extreme winds in some of the more barren areas, the Joshua trees and other taller plants are wind-blown and tilted over.

Because the Joshua tree doesn’t have actual rings, it is difficult to determine the trees’ ages. The trees are said to live anywhere from 75 to 300 years, depending on weather conditions.

While the palm oases benefit from the extreme heat in the desert, the Joshua tree is a cold desert plant and actually requires more water than one would think — about six to seven inches a year on average.

The stumps of the trees consist of fibers that act like sponges. The sponge-like fibers require more water to thrive in the desert.

“Yucca fiber is amazingly strong. In summertime, we actually play tug-o-war with it. It works really well.”

But while the Joshua trees components may be strong, there are still misfortunes that have come upon this species in recent decades.

“They’re a very sensitive species,” Joe Zarki, chief of Interpretation, said of the ‘Josh trees.’ “They don’t have a huge temperature tolerance. They won’t grow in areas where the temperature is 20 degrees less than what it’s supposed to be.”

Similarly, the Joshua trees won’t grow if temperatures in the desert exceed 100 degrees, despite the fact that they’re desert plants. Joshua trees grow between elevations of 3,000 to about 6,000 feet which makes the national park an idea location for the trees to thrive.

There are no Joshua trees at the park where elevation levels are below 1,000 feet; it can be too hot or too dry, which leaves only about 100,000 acres of JTNP’s 700,000 to 800,000 acres where Joshua trees can grow. At higher elevations, where the temperatures are cooler, Joshua trees cannot grow, either.

With Los Angeles, Las Vegas and Palm Springs metropolitan areas relatively close to Joshua Tree National Park, air pollution has inevitably become an issue for the park and its wildlife.

Years ago, when these cities were not as developed as they are now, climate change was not a problem in the foreseeable future. Today, park officials are concerned with climate change. It is real and relevant.

After all, the park’s namesake could someday cease to exist in the park one day, a worry similar to the park managers at Glacier National Park in Montana.

A group of Joshua trees in a field at Joshua Tree National Park.

In climate change patterns, if the prediction of temperatures climbing seven to eight degrees is indeed the case, the Joshua trees will have genuine problems growing in the future.

“[The trees] could just disappear from the park,” explained Zarki. “That may happen very quickly… maybe in 100 years or so.”

“It’s a big concern for us and we’re trying to get some research projects up and going. There have been some studies every year on Josh trees, looking at different things,” said Zarki.

Population densities, are among these studies where scientists will count Joshua trees in a given area, go back after a certain period of time to see the changes. Over a 40 to 50 year period, the greatest densities occurred after the 1960s.

Zarki said the flip side of this change is that the national park has a very complex landscape.

“There are a lot of valleys, north-facing slopes and a lot of microhabitats out there,” said Zarki, who can only speculate about changes at this point but is hopeful that the Joshua trees can adapt to the different environments that make up the national park over time.

 

If You Go

• And you’re adventurous, stay at one of the many campgrounds Joshua Tree National Park has to offer.
• Bring lunch to the picnic area at Hidden Valley then hike the trail.
• Rock climbing is one of the main attractions of Joshua Tree. If you’re experienced, bring your gear and explore.
• Be sure to always have plenty of water with you (the park recommends one gallon of water per person, per day) comfortable shoes, and sunscreen.
• At night, drive into the park and go stargazing. Pam Tripp and other park present stargazing tours at both the Cottonwood Campground and at the Oasis Visitor Center. Check with the park for dates on these excursions.
• Bike riding through the park is permitted and encouraged.
• There are plenty of nature walks of all distances and difficulties to witness the vast wildlife of Joshua Tree such as birding and wildflower viewing.  Visit http://www.nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/ntrails.htm for a list of these trails and what you’ll get to see at each site.

Camping in park offers full desert experience

By KELSEY PINAULT
School of Communication
University of Miami

TWENTYNINE PALMS, Calif. --- With so many trails to hike and unusual sights to see, one day in Joshua Tree National Park is not nearly enough.

Throughout the vast 794,000-acre park, there are nine different campgrounds, giving visitors the opportunity to get the full California desert experience.

“I thought it would be a great experience for the kids and my wife since they’ve never done anything like this before,” said Jeff Mehert, who visited the park with his family on their cross-country RV road trip from Wisconsin.

Campers are advised to bring all of their belongings with them when they leave their campground unattended for any time (Photos by Kelsey Pinault).

The different campgrounds of Joshua Tree are spread throughout the park, many of which are close to popular spots.

“We chose to set up our camp in Ryan, because it’s right next to the first hike we wanted to do up Ryan Mountain,” said Miranda Kersten, another visitor from Wisconsin.

Although all of the campgrounds have close proximities to some sites, many campers bring a mode of transportation to use while staying in the park, as some of the other destinations are too far to walk.

“I take my bike when I need to go somewhere, but when all of us are leaving we pack most of our stuff and take the RV,” said Mehert.

Because there are so many different camping locations, park rangers cannot regulate all the sites. Visitors are warned when entering the campground to be responsible for all belongings.

Each site provides campers with a picnic table and fire grate. All other necessities are to be brought by the campers such as food and water.

“It’s best to bring food like beans, potatoes, hot dogs, pasta, eggs and bacon because they fill you up better than snacks, ” said Austin King, visiting from elsewhere in California, who has experience camping but is a first-time visitor to Joshua Tree.

Other items to consider bringing include a portable stove, eating utensils, and plenty to drink. If campers run out of water, it is available at all three of the Joshua Tree gift shops. The park also asks visitors to bring their own firewood, as all of the plants are protected.

At left, recreational Vehicles (RVs) are commonly used by campers visiting Joshua Tree National Park. Below, iInformation boards are provided at the entrance of each campground where visitors are expected to deposit their campsite fees.

Because campers come and go at all times of the day and night, Joshua Tree National Park uses an honor system to collect fees. Near each campground is a small metal box, referred to as “the iron ranger”, with simple directions of how to pay. Fees run from $10 to $40 depending on the campground and how many people are in the group.

Depending on the season, some sites, such as Belle and Cottonwood, fill up on a first-come, first-serve basis, while other sites must be reserved.

“When we got here, all of the camps were full, but luckily someone didn’t show up for their reservation, so we got to stay,” said King.

Reservations can be made six to 12 months in advance and are a good idea during the spring when the park is known to have a large amount of visitors at a time.

When planning a camping visit to Joshua Tree National Park, be sure to check the information provided on the website to be as prepared as possible for your time in the desert.


If You Go

Joshua Tree National Park has three main entrances:

• West Entrance: five miles south of the junction of State Highway 62 and Park Boulevard at Joshua Tree Village.
• North Entrance: in Twentynine Palms, three miles south of the junction of State Highway 62 and Utah Trail.
• South Entrance: at Cottonwood Spring, can be accessed from the east or west via Interstate 10.

Hours of operation:Joshua Tree National Park is accessible at all hours, but some trails are closed at night.

Facilities: Restrooms are located before most trails. Gift shops and visitors centers are located at the park entrances.

Entry fees: Seven-day vehicle pass: $15; Seven-day single entry pass: $5; annual pass (entry for signee and guests): $30

Campgrounds, fees and facilities:
Belle: $10, 18 sites.
Black Rock: $15, 100 sites. Horse camp $15. Water available.
Cottonwood: $15, 62 sites. $30 group fee, three group sites. Water available.
Hidden Valley: $10, 39 sites.
Indian Cove: $15, 101 sites. $25/40 group fee, 13 group sites.
Jumbo Rocks: $10, 124 sites.
Ryan: $10, 31 sites.
Sheep Pass: $25/40 group fee, six group sites.
White Tank: $10, 15 sites.
All campsites have restrooms available, but no showers.

Campground regulations: Campsites are limited to six people, three tents, and two cars. Group sites accommodate 10 to 60 people. Each campsite has a picnic table and fire grate. Food-storage containers capable of preventing access by wildlife are required.

Campground hours: Campgrounds have quiet hours from 10 p.m. to 6 a.m.

Campsite reservations: Sites at Black Rock and Indian Cove campgrounds may be reserved from Oct.1 through May 31 by calling 877-444-6777 up to six months in advance of the date you want to reserve. Or you may make reservations online at http://www.recreation.gov. Group site reservations may be made up to 12 months in advance throughout the year by calling 877-444-6777 or online at http://www.recreation.gov. First-come, first-served campgrounds include: Belle, Cottonwood, Hidden Valley, Jumbo Rocks, Ryan, and White Tank. Black Rock and Indian Cove campgrounds are first-come, first-served only during the summer—June through September.

Bats often maligned, but offer much to parks

Roosevelt’s home undergoes major rehabilitation

Water pollution continues to threaten parks

National parks accessible for disabled visitors

Parks seek to expand to protect their environments

Invasive plants harm parks, despite appearance

National parks seek balance of preservation and use

Web cameras take growing role for parks

Lionfish unwelcome visitor to East Coast waters

Protecting fragile coral reefs is top priority

Native American burial sites protected within parks

Childhood dream comes true for Biscayne ranger

Seafood Depot offers history, regional cuisine

Dramatic to view, volcanos pose danger for visitors

Bleaching threatens coral reefs in national parks

Training keeps rescue teams ready for emergencies

Sustaining forests remains a challenge in parks

Safety when viewing wildlife is priority at parks

When in season, fisherman seek elusive stone crabs

Wildfires pose threat to many parks each year

Poor air quality diminishes park experiences

Climate change impacts sensitive parks in Alaska

Child safety remains high priority in national parks

Ozone reaching dangerous levels in some parks

Rock climbing grows in popularity at Joshua Tree

By STEPHANIE BEYL
School of Communication
University of Miami

TWENTYNINE PALMS, Calif. -- Joshua Tree National Park is known around the world for the rock climbing opportunities.

With more than 400 climbing formations and 8,000 climbing routes, the park attracts thousands of climbers each year.

“Casual climbers could spend 30 years in here climbing,” said Joe Zarki, Joshua Tree’s chief of Interpretation.

Click on the video at right to view an audio slideshow about rock climbing safety at Joshua Tree National Park photographed and prepared by writer Stephanie Beyl.

There are not too many restrictions either, with no age limits and no permit required to climb.

“Climbing kind of exploded here as an activity in the late 70s and early 80s. It took off and kind of took park management by surprise. We were not really geared up to manage a major recreational activity like that,” admitted Zarki.

Now, there are thousands of rock climbers. Hidden Valley is the most popular rock climbing region in the park, making it the first campground to fill with visitors. There are also known bolted rock climbing routes in Indie Cove, conveniently located near a campground.

“You are not suppose to climb in somebody’s camp site without their permission, so there is sort of an informal general courtesy rule along those lines,” said Zarki.

There is no need for a permit to climb or scramble on rocks, but there are some regulations regarding anchors. Climbers do not need to have a permit to replace existing anchors in wilderness and non-wilderness areas, but there are regulations when inserting new anchors.

A permit is required if placing new anchors in wilderness areas. Joshua Tree is trying to discourage the placement of new bolted routes, especially in wilderness space, because it can cause damage to the rocks.

“There are, if you are hiking in wilderness, party size limits as well. Groups cannot be any larger than 12. If you are going to be climbing in wilderness you should be in a fairly small group. Most groups have two to four climbers,” Zarki explained.

Hidden Valley is a prime location for rock climbers with many different rock formations providing climbing opportunities at various levels of difficulty (Photos by Stephanie Beyl).

Climbing is not heavily regulated because there is not a huge staff of faculty rangers to check up on climbers. Zarki said there is “kind of an honors system” with visitors to respect the park.

However, if climbers are in need of assistance, there are rangers to help. The most common service is for a climber who has fallen and requires medical attention.

While rock climbing can be dangerous for the climber, climbing also puts the environment in danger. With thousands of climbers each year, there is risk for damaging the rocks.

Some rocks have pictographs and are considered cultural remains, which can be damaged by climbers due to chalk. Climbers occasionally use chalk on their hands for protection. The chalk is damaging to pictographs and rock paintings, making them difficult to restore.

Furthermore, there is wildlife to consider because climbers can disturb nesting. Nesting activities for birds, particularly raptors, is prominent during certain times of year.

According to Zarki, nesting is a huge concern for Joshua Tree because there are not many raptors left.

“In more recent years, we have taken a survey about where we have nesting raptors. When we know there is an active raptor nest in the climbing area we will close that climbing area during the nesting season.”

Joshua Tree has formed partnerships with climbing advocacy groups in an effort to be more proactive at managing preservation. Two advocacy groups are The Access Fund and Friends of Joshua Tree.

The Access Fund is a national advocacy organization that strives to keep U.S. climbing areas open for climbers, and help with environment conservation.

At left, this group of young men came from San Diego to do some rock climbing in Hidden Valley. Below, rock climbing instructors provide informational tips to other climbers in Hidden Valley.

“We have worked with Joshua Tree, most recently our new Conservation Team was there doing trail work and attending the Climb Smart event,” said R.D. Pascoe, Access Fund Policy Director.

The Climb Smart event took place during a weekend in late October at Joshua Tree Lake campground and climbing site. Legendary professional climbers began a climbing season with skills clinics and multimedia presentations. The weekend also included service projects in the park and a big Saturday night party with a raffle. This event was hosted by Friends of Joshua Tree.

Friends of Joshua Tree is a local non-profit organization that works to preserve the traditional climbing in Joshua Tree National Park by communicating and encouraging ethical and environmentally acceptable climbing practices.

Both of these groups have climbers as members who can represent the interest of the climber community. Members assist on volunteer days on ecological restoration projects, by restoring damaging social trails created by climbers for example.

“There has been a lot of progress by helping the groups get in the system and helping them embrace the goals the park has. That way they can climb but do so the way the park wants,” said Zarki.

With the vast amount of climbers, it took management a number of years to organize a plan for climbing regulation.

“There are some other parks like Yosemite and Devil’s Tower in Wyoming that have similar climbing situations like we have here. Talking to them and seeing what they were doing helped us gradually put a plan together,” said Zarki.

Joshua Tree rock climbing has brought visitors of all climbing levels. I ran into two instructors, Amos Whiting and Marc Chauvin, who were giving a course to other experienced climbers.

I also ran into a group of young men from San Diego who came for the weekend to enjoy casual climbing and camping. Alex Sparhawk, 24, was among the group.

"Joshua tree has some world class climbing and is very accessible to Southern California. We love coming out here for a weekend getaway because its close, has a wide variety of climbs and has spectacular scenery," said Sparhawk.

“Joshua Tree is a great place to climb. It is the stickiest and toughest rock I have ever been on.  Alex and I are planning on going back there in a few weeks. This time I plan on bring lots of gear to set up my own top rock anchors,” said Sam Gerlach, 25, also among the group. “Joshua Tree lacks the anchors that most climbing spots have, but more then makes up for it in the amount of sport climbs it has.”

“This is one of the premiere rock climbing parks, especially because we are open year round. During the time when Yosemite starts to get snowed in, people can come to Joshua Tree,” said Joshua Tree Interpretive Ranger Pam Tripp.

If You Go

• Remember to bring: Plenty of water and comfortable shoes.
• Permit for new anchors in wilderness: You can arrange for a permit to place new fixed anchors in wilderness by calling 760-367-5545.
• Emergency: If there is an emergency, a park dispatcher can be reached directly by calling 909-383-5651, or call 911.
• Map: To view rock climbing maps, visit: http://www.nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/maps.htm 

 

Trust provides support for South Florida parks

Deaths at Grand Canyon should be safety warning

Creating new parks takes time, Congress’ approval

Hidden Valley— Gem at the center of Joshua Tree

By RACHEL HARTMAN
School of Communication
University of Miami

TWENTYNINE PALMS, Calif. – If the mountains, valleys and eerie seclusion and remoteness that embody Joshua Tree National Park were not enough to take in at first sight, pay a visit to the Hidden Valley Trail... a secluded sanctuary with an interpretive trail in the heart of the park, with a campground just across the road, and Barker Dam just minutes away by car.

Unlike the many rolling hills of sand found at other parts of Joshua Tree, Hidden Valley is composed mostly of large boulders and countless rocks—one of the most popular destinations for rock climbers. That, and the fact that the campground just across the road, namely Hidden Valley Campground epitomizes the convenience for avid climbers.

Click on the video at the right to see an audio slideshow about Hidden Valley photographed and prepared by writer Rachel Hartman.

Joe Zarki, chief of Interpretation at Joshua Tree National Park talks about the appeal that the Hidden Valley holds for visitors.

“The area is the center of the park… [it’s a] scenic gore. Overall, it is one of our most popular destinations both for rock climbers and non-climbers alike.”

Like Zarki said, it is okay if you’re not a climber. 

The Hidden Valley walking/hiking trail is one of the easiest trails at this national park, despite the difficulty of rock climbing here.  Hikers can take in the rocks scaling to 4,200 feet at their highest point and the climbers climbing on them, all while hiking a trail that will take less than an hour.

Mary Jo Anzia, a hiker from Wisconsin, came to visit friends Dani and Don Lassetter, a couple who have been living in nearby Yucca Valley for 15 years.  Mary Jo is glad to be able to walk around without being bundled up on a beautiful Sunday afternoon.  In November, for Mary Jo, with the sunshine and light breezes, 65 degrees feels like a dream—and is the perfect weather to accompany a hike on the trail.

Unique rock formations along the Hidden Valley Trail at Joshua Tree National Park (Photo by Rachel Hartman).

Yucca Valley is close, only a few minutes by car, and Dani and Don Lassetter come to Hidden Valley whenever they have guests.

“Hidden Valley is an easy hike, and for those that aren’t the mountain climbers, this is pretty easy to do if you have good shoes on,” Don Lassetter said.

The Hidden Valley trail, home to spectacular views of rocks, climbers and wildlife, is only a mile in length and includes a picnic area, an ideal place for families.

“We have a range of family members who range from little to old, it’s just an easy place… and the history is nice here so you can talk about that too,” Dani Lassetter explained.

The history Dani and Don talked about was when, back in the 1870s a pair of brothers, Bill and Jim McHaney and their band of cowboys known as the McHaney Gang were known for stealing cattle and horses and hiding them between the rocks at Hidden Valley. They rebranded the cattle there, with 55-acres to do so. At the time, the herds had abundant amounts of grass to feed on, as it covered most of the valley’s floor.

A large rock formation in the distance at the entrance of Hidden Valley at Joshua Tree National Park (Photo by Rachel Hartman).

After the herds were rebranded, they were sold off in other states.  At one time a successful business, by the end of the 19th century, many cattlemen and miners had moved into the region and quickly it became a business no more.

Along the Hidden Valley trail are excerpts about what one will encounter walking hiking. Naturalist Peggy Larson calls the desert “a mosaic of miniature worlds” on one of these podium excerpts. At Hidden Valley, these “miniature worlds” indeed provide habitats for many species and life forms. 

According to the park’s bits of information along the trail, the rocks surrounding the valley block winds and collect moisture, making the valley a climate that supports many forms of wildlife and wild plants (such as the Joshua tree). 

Hidden Valley is referred to as a “transition zone” because of its special climate between the Joshua tree forest and the pinyon-juniper woodlands. Oaks and pines grow mostly in the rockier areas, according to the park, while the Joshua trees and plants like it grow in the center of the valley.

The rock formations allow for rain to trickle down through cracks in the rocks and reach the valley’s floor.  In so doing, plants collect these rains and the rocks protect the drying of these plants from winds.

And with so many cracks in the rock’s formations, animals like lizards or snakes find the valley the supreme place to hide and thrive.  Animals and plants do well together in this region; while animals feed on certain plants, they are also cross-pollinating in the process.

A view from the Hidden Valley Trail at Joshua Tree (Photo by Rachel Hartman).

“Plants and animals have adapted to the rocky areas, especially the collard trees in the park,” Zarki explains. 

“Pinyon pines and oaks are about 15-20 feet tall. These spots are good for birds, small animals. They are some of the best habitat locations.”

Humans, too, have seen the beauty and seclusion of Hidden Valley and embraced it, making it one of the most popular trails at the park. With so much popularity, especially with Hidden Valley’s rock climbing, many social trails have been made by climbers (as well as the dominant trail that hikers use) to go from the best rock climbing sites at Hidden Valley to another.  Social trails, which are trails not made by the national park but by visitors instead, are common and found at many of Joshua Tree’s popular sites.

Thad Nodine, an author (and a “trail expert” jokingly called by his friends)  from Santa Cruz, Calif., traveled to Joshua Tree National Park with four of his friends from Oberlin College class of 1979 in Ohio.

The group of friends, who hail from all over the country these days (Iowa, Boston, Seattle and San Diego) make it a point to get together every year at a different destination.  This year at Joshua Tree, the gang was having a great time walking and talking on the Hidden Valley trail.

“It’s one of my favorite trails,” Nodine said about Hidden Valley. “You can watch the rock climbers and not have to be one.”

Nodine and his friends laughed as they took a break and drank water from their camelbacks. The group was staying at a nearby hotel in Joshua Tree, you won’t catch them camping at the national park.

Rock formations with trees and other wildlife growing through the cracks along the Hidden Valley Trail at Joshua Tree National Park (Photo by Stephanie Beyl).

Large rocks often are used to line and mark the Hidden Valley Trail at Joshua Tree (Photo by Rachel Hartman).

First-come, first-serve determines the availability of the campgrounds at Joshua Tree. It can be problematic for rock climbers who want the convenience of the Hidden Valley campground, just across the road from the trail with some of the best rocks for rock climbing.

“Nope. It’s all filled up,” rock climber Adam Sparhawk said of the Hidden Valley campground, which only has 39 campsites.  “We’re staying over at Ryan Camp.”

Ryan Campground, a small campground with only 31 sites, has nearby rock formations that are taller and more isolated than those at Hidden Valley but fewer rocks, so less climbers can climb there.

Sparhawk and a group of his friends were hanging out by their car, gathering climbing gear to head off into Hidden Valley. Undeniably, Hidden Valley is a hot spot for avid climbers and hikers of all ages.

 

If You Go

• Be sure to bring plenty of water.
• Wear hiking shoes.  Although the trail is easy, there are rocks that are not suitable for some shoes.
• The picnic area at Hidden Valley is great for groups.  Take an earlier hike then have lunch right at the site after you climb or hike. 
• If you want to stay at the Hidden Valley Campground just across the road, make sure to ask a park ranger when the least busy weeks of the year are; again, these sites are first-come, first-serve.

Joshua Tree offers hikers unique landscapes to view

By ROSA ORIHUELA
School of Communication
University of Miami

TWENTYNINE PALMS, Calif. --- Walking through miles of rock-covered mountains while enjoying views of out-of-this-world landscapes is an invigorating experience for adrenaline junkies and first time hikers alike.

Joshua Tree National Park near here offers a unique combination of remarkable rock formations, mild climate much of the year and diversity of flora and fauna. It is a hiker’s paradise with hidden oasis and rocks as large as mini vans.

“It is one of the most unique places on the planet, there is nothing quite like this, with this backdrop and vegetation and life out here. It is an incredible spot,” said David Smith, a 33-year-old experienced hiker.

The park has three visitor centers, Oasis Visitor Center in Twentynine Palms, Joshua Tree Visitor Center in the Village of Joshua Tree and Cottonwood Visitor Center in Cottonwood Spring, where hikers can pick up a map and talk to the park rangers about their visit.

“Not many places get phone service. Beware that there are few spots where there is a signal. Hikers should let someone know when will they be back, make sure there is plenty of water and basic necessities,” said Pam Tripp, lead ranger for Cottonwood and Night Sky Program leader.

“(Hikers should) stay put if they get lost. They should bring flashlights, blankets, compass and a reflecting device,” she stated.

Click on the video at the right to view an audio slideshow about hiking in Joshua Tree National Park. The video was photographed by Zongchao Li and Rosa Orihuela and produced by Rosa Orihuela.

Furthermore, hikers should be mindful of the weather since the temperature is constantly changing. At the beginning of the hike, the day may be sunny but it might rain heavily during the day so it is advice to wear layers and carry plenty of water.

While the weather is mild much of the year, it can become extreme and dangerous in mid-summer. Temperatures within the park often reach 100 to 120 degrees in summer months.

“Be prepared for rain or getting lost. Just the elements and bring lost of water,” said Katelyn Aggement, a 25-year-old experienced hiker from California. “For this particular hike, [Ryan Mountain] you should bring an extra layer (clothes), lots of water and a camera.”

Hikers should prepare adequately to have a successful hike. Appropriate shoes are essential for rocky terrain like the mountains in Joshua Tree.

“One of the biggest things for first timers is your shoes fit good, so you are not going to get blisters,” said Eric Thomas 27-year-old hiker. “People buy brand new hiking boots, they go wear them and they get blisters. You should break them in before you set out of the trail.”

Barker Dam Loop is very popular with tourists who want to see the old dam built in the 1900s (Photos by Rosa Orihuela).

Visitors do not need to go on a three-day hike to experience hiking, since Joshua Tree offers hiking trails for every experience level. Hike trails vary from 1.1 miles to 37 miles long so hikers can choose between an easy afternoon stroll, without much elevation change and an adrenaline-pumping weekend.

“There is a different between the hiking you are talking about (long hikes) and short hikes. There a big different between a day hike of three miles and overnight backpacking,” said Thomas. “Overnight backpacking is awesome because you are self-sufficient. You have everything you need to survive for multiple days on your back. It is like a turtle carrying your own food and your water. “

First time hikers usually start with Barker Dam Loop. It is a scenic route with various attractions such as petroglyphs and a damp-made desert lake.

“It is one of the most popular trails out here, one of the reasons, is a short trail. It is only 1.1 miles. It takes you back man-made damp that was built in the early 1900s,” Tripp said. It fills up with water, we get a nice little lake and so we get to see bighorn sheep.”

Fortynine Palms Oasis Trail gives hikers a great landscape in which to snap a picture. The contrast between the palm trees and the sandy desert is extraordinary.

It is an easy hike that the whole family can enjoy. It is not a long trail, so visitors can venture into more challenging routes.

Fortynine Palms Oasis Trail is a three-mile round trip that offers one of the best views in the whole park. The route starts with a set of long rocky stairs that takes the hiker to the peak of a small hill and back down again to a rocky valley.

As hikers approach the north-side ridge, palm groves become visible. Then the palm groves play hide-and-go-seek with the hikers as they appeared and disappeared at each turn. The sight of vegetation presses the hikers on until the last turn leads hikers into a beautiful oasis. The pond-covered by palm trees is a breath-taking sight amidst the dry and sandy surroundings.

If a high altitude climb is preferred, Ryan Mountain is the trail to hike. Ryan Mountain has a 5,461-foot summit that offers a 360-degrees view of the park. Hikers do not need to reach the top to see the flora surrounding the mountains and the long park trails. However, reaching the summit allows the hiker to see the Wonderland of Rocks, Mount San Jacinto and many other views.

“We have come as a family because we left our other son in a Boy Scouts meeting,” said Craig Furtada ,42, who was with his two sons and wife enjoying the trail. “I think everyone can do it and it has an incredible view.”

The most challenging and thrill seeking hike is the California Riding & Hiking Trail. It is 37 miles long of desert forest and rock covered mountains. The trail starts at the northwest corner and ends at the North Entrance section.

At right, Ryan Mountain Trail offers hikers a great place to exercise and a wonderful view of the park. Hikers usually stop half way to get a drink of water and take in the view. Below, Ryan Mountain Trail’s unique rock formations captivate hikers who enjoy the breath-taking views of this three-mile trail.

California Riding & Hiking Trail brings many thrill seekers who want to become one with nature and test their survival skills.

“It is just being out in the middle of nowhere totally by yourself. You are relying on yourself for cooking and you have to do certain things to stay warm and keep your body alive,” said Tony Sassu, a 24-year-old hiker who does winter solo hikes. “You do not really see those things in the city, you know you do not have to work to keep yourself alive in the city, but when you are hiking, you do. It is that extra little thrill.”

Visitors come from all over the world to hike Joshua Tree’s unique landscapes and uncover its trails. Whether an experienced hiker trying to get the next adrenaline boost, a beginner hiker trying to gain experience or a family seeking a way to spend a Saturday morning, Joshua Tree provides hike trails for all skill levels and needs. The beauty of this desert paradise leaves all hikers wanting for more.

If You Go

• Hours of operation: Open 365 days a year, but there are some areas with restricted access at night.
• Cost of attendance: There are national park entry fees, but there are exceptions during the annual National Parks Week, held in April entry fees are waived in more than 100 parks nationwide. Some of the different fees are: the Seven-Day Vehicle Permit: $15 which admits the passengers of a single, non-commercial vehicle and the Seven-Day Single Entry Permit: $5 which admits one person entering on foot, bicycle, motorcycle, or horse.
• Location: It is located in Twentynine Palms, Calif. Joshua Tree is east of I-10 near Palm Springs. It's 150 miles east of Los Angeles, 175 miles northeast of San Diego, and 215 miles southwest of Las Vegas.
• How Long: A few hours to two days for camping.
• Best Time to Visit: Spring and fall have the best weather.
• What to Bring: Water, snacks, compass and good pair of hiking boots.

 

Hiking Trail List by Joshua Tree National Park Hiking Guide:

• Boy Scout Trail--- A moderate 16-mile round-trip hike that takes from one to two days to complete. It is a scenic trail through the edge of the Wonderland of Rocks.
• Ryan Mountain--- It offers breath-taking views of Lost Horse, Queen, and Pleasant valleys. Its summit of 5,461 feet allows the hiker to see the whole park. It is a strenuous three-mile hike that takes two to three hours to complete.
• 49 Palm Oasis--- A moderately strenuous three-mile round-trip hike that takes from two to three hours to complete. It offers views of an oasis. Several stands of fan palms and pools of water are found at the oasis.
• Lost Palm Oasis--- Canyon with numerous palm stands. A side trip to Victory Palms and Munsen Canyon involves scrambling. It is moderate eight-mile hike that lasts four to six hours.
• Lost Horse Mine and Mountain--- A moderately strenuous four-mile round-trip hike that takes three to four hours to complete. It is the site of 10-stamp mill and its summit is at 5,278 feet.
• Mastodon Peak--- It has excellent views of the Eagle Mountains and Salton Sea. Its summit is 3,371 feet making it a strenuous hike and a great place to take pictures. The hike is a three-mile round-trip that lasts two to three hours.

Planning key to survival when visiting desert areas

By HANNAH ROMIG
School of Communication
University of Miami

TWENTYNINE PALMS, Calif. --- If someone says, “you go one way, I’ll go the other way, and we will meet up on the other side,” do not agree to it if you are out in the desert.

First, evaluate your surroundings. This idea may work in a grocery store or at a racetrack, but park rangers at Joshua Tree National Park warn that such an approach between park visitors will inevitably lead to a party member getting lost. 

Joseph Zarki, chief of Interpretation at Joshua Tree, has dealt with missing person incidents resulting from visitors wandering away from marked hiking trails, falling while rock climbing and getting stranded after vehicle breakdowns.

To avoid future incidents, Zarki is working to educate park visitors on desert survival.

Click on the video at the right to view an audio slideshow about survival in the desert photographed and prepared by writer Hannah Romig.

He argues that survival involves much more than drinking plenty of water and applying sunscreen. It requires packing the right gear, recognizing marked trail routes, evaluating personal climbing skills and preparing for emergencies.

“Whether you are hiking, climbing, driving, camping or biking, always tell someone where you’re going and when you expect to return. Don’t hike alone if you can avoid it. Make sure you have adequate food, water and clothing suitable to the time of day you’re going to be out, and wear sunscreen and a hat to protect yourself,” said Zarki. “Most importantly, if you get lost, just stay put.”

For desert hikers and campers, a large part of survival hinges on the contents of a backpack. Packing essentials include a gallon of water per person per day, sufficient food, waterproof tents for overnight stays and extra blankets.

“Overnight backpacking is awesome because you are self sufficient, you have everything you need to survive for multiple days on your back. It is like a turtle carrying your own food and your water,” said park visitor Eric Thomas, age 27.

Ming Huang, who came to the park from San Diego, spent the night on Ryan Mountain with a 25-pound backpack full of Ramen noodles, curry, rice, water, a tent and a sleeping bag.

Camper Dennis Yankulov from Los Angeles reaches into his self-pitched, waterproof tent to grab some extra blankets for sitting around the campfire (Photos by Hannah Romig).

At the Hidden Valley Campground, Austin King and a group of friends were equipped with their own firewood and headlamps. After her first night of camping, King realized that cooking hearty meals was more satisfying than snacking on small granola bars or trail mix.

“Don’t bring snack foods, thinking that they will be easy meals, because they won’t fill you up. Pack food like beans, hot dogs, potatoes, eggs and bacon,” said King.

Before heading out for a hike in Joshua Tree, take the time to collect a desert map at one of the three visitor centers. Although hiking trails are well marked at the beginning of each path, maps are helpful because side trails blur actual path boundaries and make it difficult for hikers to distinguish between the right and wrong way.

“One of the problems we have here at Joshua Tree is we have a lot of what are called social trails,” said Zarki. “These are trails that are not official park trails, but are made either by hikers or horseback riders and they look like paths.”

With the park extending almost 80,000 acres, it is extremely important that visitors stick to designated trail paths. Zarki said that most people usually rescue themselves before an emergency is proclaimed, but Joshua Tree Search and Rescue is deployed about six times a year.

“Most people just wander around a little bit and then all of the sudden they stumble out on the road and they’re fine,” said Zarki. “The search and rescue team is a highly skilled group, though.”

Paid park staff and nearby town volunteers engage in weekly training programs in the desert to prepare for missing person reports. If lost, they recommend that you continue to call out for help. In one incident at Barker Dam, a man fell into a ravine sink. He was located five days later only because he continued to shout for help.

As the head ranger for Joshua Tree’s night sky programs, Pam Tripp tells her guests to prepare for extreme temperature changes. From day to night, desert temperatures can drop up to 40 degrees. The fluctuating climate poses a heightened threat to those who tour the park by car because passengers are the most likely individuals to be unprepared for the weather.

“People don’t know how to prepare for the climate and they often forget that they are pretty insulated in a car with air conditioning or a heater but, if that car breaks down, you need to deal with the weather outside. Even if you do get stuck out eight miles or so and that is a distance and average person can cover, it’s different in the desert,” said Tripp.

At right, Hidden Valley campgrounds are claimed on a first-come, first-served basis and come equipped with a picnic table and parking space. Below, an experienced climber prepares to ascend a boulder barehanded. Boulder climbs are a popular recreational activity at Joshua Tree.

The motto of staying put resonates in this type of situation, because it is likely that the search team will be able to locate a vehicle. Tripp says that, if your car breaks down, the best instrument for attracting attention is a reflective CD or similar object.

Climbers are urged to be honest in recognizing their skills. Visitors flock to Joshua Tree for the specific reason of climbing the massive rocks that decorate the desert landscape, and it is common for the activity to be considered a family event.

“Make sure when you’re climbing to get good equipment, to know how to use it and to not overdue your climbing skills. People often forget that it is easier to go up than it is to go down,” said Zarki.

With three deaths in 2011, Zarki, Tripp and the rest of the Joshua Tree staff are emphasizing desert safety now more than ever. One of the biggest challenges comes with the popularization of the park as it appeals to international travelers.

“There are a lot of international people who come from Europe and aren’t used to the desert. We are trying to figure out how to communicate information about desert safety to a visitor population that speaks a different language,” said Zarki.

Noted progress has been made with the availability of park information in Dutch, French, German, Japanese, Italian and Spanish at visitor centers and entrance stations.

Ultimately, however, visitors must assume the responsibility of educating themselves about the proper way to pack and prepare for an adventure in the desert.

“You have to rely on yourself for cooking and you have to do certain things to stay warm and keep your body alive out here. You do not really see those things in the city. You know you do not have to work to keep yourself alive in the city, but when you are hiking or camping, you do. It is that extra little thrill,” said Tony Sassu, an experience hiker who traveled to Joshua Tree from Florida.


If You Go

Joshua Tree National Park
74485 National Park Dr.
Twentynine Palms, Calif. 92277

Year-Round Visitor Center Hours

• Oasis: 8 a.m. – 5 p.m.
• Joshua Tree: 8 a.m. – 5 p.m.
• Cottonwood: 9 a.m. – 3 p.m.

For emergencies:

• Phone: 909-383-5651
• Cell phone service in inconsistent in the park. Call collect for guaranteed reception of call, and keep a first aid kit and water with you at all times.

Barker Dam: Path through Joshua Tree history

By KELSEY PINAULT
School of Communication
University of Miami

TWENTYNINE PALMS, Calif. --- From experienced hikers and rock climbers to families and Boy Scout groups, Joshua Tree National Park is visited by thousands of people from around the world each year.

Although the hikes up the rough terrain of rocky formations are a main attraction for many visitors to Joshua Tree, one of the most interesting and beautiful trails is a simple loop covering a flat area in the desert.

The route to Barker Dam is a clearly marked trail just more than one mile long. Although the views of Joshua trees and rock formations along the path are appealing, this trail is unique to any other in the park.

Click on the video at right to view an audio slideshow about Barker Dam Trail photographed and produced by writer Kelsey Pinault.

Named after the small dam that is located in the area, Barker Dam gives park visitors a chance to learn about the history of Joshua Tree park while enjoying interesting desert views.

When the area that is now protected as a national park began to develop in the early 1900s, cowboys built Barker Dam as a water source for their cattle. Today, the dam attracts a variety of wildlife and vegetation, especially when enough rainwater from the park is held at the dam. Along with the dam, the path overlooks an old man-made well that was also used by cattle ranchers.

“I loved being able to see these historical pieces and learning about them with the signs along the trail,” said Elizabeth Widen, a park visitor from Wisconsin.

On the way to the dam, the Barker Dam Trail also showcases a large rock formation with ancient petroglyphs carvings. Years ago these carvings, which are believed to be more than 1,000 years old, were painted over to be used on a movie set.

The Barker Dam Trail is 1.1 miles on mostly flat terrain providing scenic views of Joshua trees and rock formations along the way (Photos by Kelsey Pinault).

“These are a part of history and it’s a good way to learn about the fact that we shouldn’t alter these old paintings from Native Americans because it’s a really amazing thing to see,” said Pam Tripp, an interpretive ranger at Joshua Tree National Park.

Providing an easy path, Barker Dam is ideal for people of all ages, being a favorite among visitors with small children.

“This trail is perfect for the kids because it’s not too long and there’s plenty for them to see,” said Arlen Heginbotham, who visited the park in November with his wife and two young daughters.

The water level in the man-made dam varies throughout the year, but the site is one to see whether it is dry or filled will nine feet of water.

“There have been times when the water is flowing over the dam and the trails are flooded,” said Joe Zarki, chief of Interpretation at Joshua Tree National Park. “It’s one of the best places to see animals in the park. Over the summer people reported seeing bighorn sheep almost everyday in the area.”

Joshua Tree offers so many hikes, trails and unique views to visitors to the point where it can be hard to fit it all in one trip. However, even on a quiet day Barker Dam is known as one of the busiest trails, topping many visitor’s lists as a must see.

The Barker Dam Trail is an ideal walk for families with small children. Some groups take advantage of the open land along the trail setting up a picnic.

 

If You Go

• Directions: From Joshua Tree, drive south along Park Boulevard and enter the park via the West Entrance Station. Continue following the road past the Boy Scout Trailhead. Turn left onto the road marked with a sign for Barker Dam.
• Parking: There is a large trailhead parking lot for Barker Dam and Wall Street Mill.
  Hours of operation: the park is accessible at all hours, however Barker Dam Trail closes after sunset.
• Facilities: Restrooms are located before the trail. Gift shops and visitors centers are located at the park entrances.
• Fees: Seven-day vehicle pass: $15; seven-day single entry pass: $5; annual pass (entry for signee and guests): $30.
• For more information: Visit: http://www.nps.gov/jotr or call: 760-367-6392.

Palm oases add color to desert of Joshua Tree

By KELSEY PINAULT
School of Communication
University of Miami

TWENTYNINE PALMS, Calif. --- Known for dry hot weather and a barren sand and rock terrain, the last thing people think of when referring to a desert is lush greenery and supple water.

However, the fan palm oases of Joshua Tree National Park defy this description.

Of less than 200 palm oases in all of North America, this national park is home to five. Thriving off of the warm climate and groundwater availability, fan palms thrive in certain elevations throughout the 1,235 square miles of protected parkland in Southern California.

The fan palm oases located in Joshua Tree provide color and life to the otherwise desolate land in the Mojave and Colorado deserts. Some of the oases are tucked in the crevices of rocky mountains, while others are just a short walk from the visitor center.

The small amount of water in the Oasis of Mara at Joshua Tree Nationall Park is surrounded by debris and fallen palm branches. When Native Americans inhabited this area, they would use prescribed burning to clean out dead branches, however, Joshua Tree National Park does not use this method due to fire regulations (Photos by Kelsey Pinault).

Aside from being a breath-taking sight and natural wonder, these isolated areas are beneficial to wildlife and people in the areas. When Native Americans inhabited the land of Joshua Tree, they used these oases as a source of water, shelter, food and shade from the hot desert sun. The natural desert springs are also key in the survival of animals in the desert.

“People visiting the park often report seeing animals such as bighorn sheep in these areas because it is one of the few sources of water,” said Joe Zarki, chief of Interpretation at Joshua Tree National Park.

Other animals such as quail, coyotes and kangaroo rats can be seen in these areas as well.

One of the easiest oases to access, the Oasis of Mara, is located right outside the Twentynine Palms park entrance. The city was named by gold miners who settled in the area in the late 19th century after the vast amount of palms located in this oasis. Although many of these palms are still standing today, the town was built around this site and has caused some damage to the area.

“We have to pump some water into the area every once in a while to keep the trees healthy, so it’s a little less natural than some of our other oases,” said Zarki.

After about one mile of hiking, the bright greens of Fortynine Palms Oasis is visible in the distance.

Another oasis in the park, Fortynine Palms, is known as one of the most beautiful sights to see in Joshua Tree. After a mile and a half long path that twists up and down hills, views of rock formations and cactuses turn to a vivid cluster of towering fan palms. Seeing the leafy greens and colorful flower plants at a distance almost seems like a mirage, however the palm trees are a staple in the desert, nesting a bank of fresh spring water.

“It’s amazing to go from all this dryness to see lush moist areas. Just imagining when Native Americans would finally make it to this point and have that feeling of finding water and relief from the heat makes it really interesting,” said Caroline Sims, who visited the park from Chicago.

Some of the most popular oases located in the Cottonwood Spring area of the park were closed to the public due to a flash flood in 2011. Fortunately, none of the fan palm oases were harmed, as floods can sometimes be detrimental to such areas. When unexpected events occur such as the floods, the damaged areas of the park are closed and scheduled to reopen when the area is at a healthy state again.

“The flood was beneficial because it cleaned out all of the debris, so now you can see right into the oasis,” said Pam Tripp, an interpretive ranger who has worked at Joshua Tree National Park for more than five years.

Many people visit the oases, finding the hikes appealing, and are amazed by what they see. Working on desert restorations in other regions, visitor Miranda Kersten didn’t expect her visit to Joshua Tree to be out of the ordinary.

“Even after working in other deserts, I didn’t realize like this could exist here,” said Kersten.

Even locals appreciate the beauty the fan palm oases bring to this southeastern part of California. Donnette Swain, a principal at a local Twentynine Palms school, hikes the Fortynine Palms Trail as a form of exercise when she finds the time.

“It’s a perfect loop to hike, and the view of the oasis in the middle never gets old. It’s my favorite trail,” said Swain.

Joshua Tree National Park is a place of many wonders, attracting visitors from all over the world. The fan palm oases spread throughout the park offer this desert something unique from any other, as they are truly a natural wonder.

Unusual in dry and hot desert climates, Fortynine Palms Oasis, as well as the other oases in Joshua Tree National Park, provides a source of natural spring water benefiting all of the wildlife in the area.

If You Go

Joshua Tree National Park has three main entrances:

• West entrance: five miles south of the junction of State Highway 62 and Park Boulevard at Joshua Tree Village.
• North entrance: in Twentynine Palms, three miles south of the junction of State Highway 62 and Utah Trail.
• South entrance: at Cottonwood Spring, can be accessed from the east or west via Interstate 10.

Hours of operation: Joshua Tree National Park is accessible at all hours, but some trails are closed at night.

Facilities: Restrooms are located before most trails. Gift shops and visitors centers are located at the park entrances.

Fees: Seven-day vehicle pass: $15; seven-day single entry pass: $5; annual pass (entry for signee and guests): $30.

Fan palm oases sites:

• Oasis of Mara: short walk from the Oasis Visitor Center in Twentynine Palms, California: From State Highway 62, head South of Utah Trail to access the Oasis Visitor Center parking lot.
• Fortynine Palms Trail: three mile round trip located off Park Boulevard on Canyon Road: From State Highway 62, head South of Canyon Road to access the Fourtynine Palms parking lot.
• Other oases including Lost Palms Oasis and Cottonwood Springs Oasis: trails are accessible from the Cottonwood Springs park entrance, which lies 25 miles east of Indio, can be approached from the east or west, also via Interstate 10.

For more information: Visit: http://www.nps.gov/jotr or call: 760-367-6392.

Friendly people make Teton lake hike memorable

By DARCI MILLER
School of Communication
University of Miami

JACKSON HOLE, Wyo. – Growing up in the shadows of New York City, I’m not a person that is accustomed to strangers being friendly. So, imagine my surprise when I heard a cheerful “hi!” out of nowhere as I hiked the perimeter of Jenny Lake at Grand Teton National Park.

I looked up in time to catch a glimpse of the man’s face as he passed me. I blinked.

“Did he just say hi to us?” I asked the classmates with whom I was hiking.

Click on the video at right to see a slideshow about hiking along the shore of Jenny Lake in Grand Teton National Park, photographed and produced by Darci Miller.

They smiled indulgently at me. Clearly, I was not used to the Western way of doing things.

“Jenny [Lake] is probably the busiest (and thus most stressful) trail, particularly near Inspiration Point,” said Brian Bergsma, a trails supervisor at the park. “But yeah, most folks visiting are so blown away by the area that they are super nice.”

As the three of us continued our two and a half hour hike, we came across several other groups of hikers, each as friendly as the last. Though it wasn’t at all crowded due to the lateness in the season, the people we encountered ran the gamut from parents and toddlers to newlywed couples, and everything in between.

At right, the trail around Jenny Lake in Grand Teton National Park is often uneven and rocky, but it is clear and wide, making it an easy walk for hikers (Photos by Darci Miller). Below, hiking during the offseason gives visitors the opportunity to experience the park’s fall colors.

“Jenny Lake is probably the most popular destination for the average family coming here looking for a day hike,” said David Lewis, one of Grand Teton’s park rangers.

The lake boasts trails for hikers of all levels of expertise. The one I chose was a simple loop around the lake and was clearly enjoyed by numerous small children scampering up and down the paths.

In the middle of October, the park is on its seasonal attendance decline. Visitors can hike for what feels like ages without coming across another soul. While Lewis recommends hiking in the summer months as opposed to the winter months, later in the season, such as early fall, would be his ideal time to get out on the trails.

“I even recommend doing them even when you get to more in the off-season, so even like the end of September I’d recommend then,” he said. “Off-season you can get without being too extreme into winter. Because again, when you hit the middle of the summer, July and August, you’re gonna have a lot of people.”

Again, the Northerner in me shows when I ask Lewis about the change in seasons. During winter in the mountain region, many businesses and activities largely shut down due to the weather and lack of tourism.

Jenny Lake usually has a ferry to shuttle people across the lake, which Lewis “absolutely” recommends.

“The ferry’s a cool experience,” he said. “It’s kind of nice to spend more time enjoying the actual destination.”

However, if a visitor is interested in experiencing the ferry, he or she needs to be sure to visit the park before Sept. 30. The Jenny Lake Boating Company shuts down, and the ferry is no longer an option during the winter months.

To those intrepid souls that are willing to brave the frigid weather, there are numerous winter activities in which to take part.

“It kind of transitions into snowshoeing and cross-country skiing,” Lewis said. “People will go through the trails, mostly just in the same kind of area; you don’t really follow the trail as much anymore because there’s just so much snow. So a lot of the hiking shuts down as soon as we get a lot of snow.”

Bergsma says that all the trails are open but are covered by two to 40 feet of snow.

“Last winter we had over 700 inches of snow so most people ski, snowshoe, snowboard, climb, etc.,” he said.

Jenny Lake is, of course, far from the only hiking destination in Grand Teton. In the park’s visitor center, Lewis gestures to a scale model of the park.

“I typically like to send people to Taggert Lake before Jenny Lake because they can get a better feel for hiking in the park,” Lewis said. “You get a little more of a different dynamic, whereas Jenny Lake, a lot of people just take the boat over and hike about a mile up to Inspiration Point and all back up, which is about a two-mile, quick hike. But I prefer Taggert Lake because you get more encompassing; you get the good views of the mountains… and you still get the hike to an alpine lake. It’s kind of a beautiful area. And I feel like you get away a little bit more in that area, whereas if you go to Jenny Lake and Inspiration Point, it’s going to be pretty crowded.”

At right, a lone kayaker drifts to shore on Jenny Lake. Boating is a popular activity on the lake. However, most activities, including the boat that ferries guests across the lake, close down in the offseason. Below, the trails at Jenny Lake are known for their beautiful, scenic views.

I happen to have lucked out; on the day I completed my hike in mid-October, the crowds were gone. As I walked with my classmates, I reflected that, quite often, we were completely alone and without cell service. This brought my concerns to the bright red can of bear spray strapped to my backpack and rhythmically tapping me on the thigh. All hikers are encouraged to take a can with them for their protection.

Bears “are a big concern,” said Lewis. “I think people need to just be… just stay aware. They don’t need to fear bears, just show respect. Ya know? You’re in their territory.”

Bergsma, who has worked at Grand Teton since 1994, has only experienced three or four grizzly bear attacks during his tenure, and there have been no black bear or mountain lion issues.

“Just use caution and give ‘em all a wide berth!” he said.

Luckily, my bear spray remained untouched and the trail remained bearless. Instead of large threatening creatures, I was treated to an afternoon of breathtaking views, crisp air, and the kind of serenity only nature can provide.

“It’s a phenomenal place to hike and you can’t go wrong anywhere you go,” Lewis said.


If You Go

The Jenny Lake Visitor Center is located on Teton Park Road eight miles north of Moose, Wyo., at South Jenny Lake.

Entrance into the park costs $5 per person between mid-December and April 30, and $12 for the rest of the year.

The shuttle boat across the lake costs $10 for an adult round trip, and runs every 15 to 20 minutes during the day. For more information, visit http://www.jennylakeboating.com/.

The Jenny Lake Ranger Station can be contacted at 307-739-3343.

All trails are free of cost. There are no parking fees in the park, but spaces are limited and may fill in popular areas such as Jenny Lake in summer months.

Horseback riders explore beauty of Joshua Tree

By STEPHANIE BEYL
School of Communication
University of Miami

TWENTYNINE PALMS, Calif. -- As a horseback rider myself, I can see why spending a few hours on a horse would be a popular way to experience Joshua Tree National Park.

The beautiful rock formations stand out against the blue sky and the vast 794,000-acre park seems infinite.

For those able to bring their own horses, visitors must remember the fragility of this environment. Riders are limited to certain campgrounds and trails and a permit is required to camp with horses in the backcountry.

A guided trail ride with visitors from Germany at the 30-acre Cottonwood Canyon Ranch property near Joshua Tree National Park . Visitors are riding horses Toby (pinto), Tucker (gray) and Dakota (brown). (Photo by Georgia Nicolet, owner of Cottonwood Canyon Ranch).

While reservations are not required for day use, they are needed for overnight stay. Horseback riders can choose either Ryan or Black Rock campground, both having horse camp areas. There is a $15 per-night fee for Black Rock and a $10 per-night fee for Ryan.

Black Rock campground is on the edge of the park bordering Yucca Valley so it attracts a lot of riders from that community.

Ryan campground is in the center of the park and a focal point so it benefits riders because there are a number of trails which branch off in different directions. However, logistically Ryan is more difficult to get to so people have to put horses in trailers to get to the camp.

“You get to see all the desert scenery in Joshua Tree. It is beautiful, especially during the spring when everything is blooming. You can see some wildlife like the desert mule deer, turtles and birds. You need to appreciate every area for what it is. In the desert area of course you aren’t going to like it when it is more than 100 degrees outside. But right now it is a beautiful sight,” said park visitor David Bradley.

The Cottonwood Canyon Ranch in Morongo Valley guided trail ride with scenery (Photo by Georgia Nicolet, owner of Cottonwood Canyon Ranch).

Bradley rides his horses into the park often, usually to Black Rock. He worked with the Joshua Tree Ranch and works locally providing feed for horses. Joshua Tree Ranch is a 40-acre private ranch just outside the main entrance to Joshua Tree National Park.  The ranch is currently shut down after losing their tour guide and other complications. 

Joshua Tree Ranch now refers visitors to Cottonwood Canyon Ranch (CWCR), a 30-acre property in Morongo Valley, just 15 miles from Joshua Tree.

If a stable wants to charge to provide tours it must have a concessions contract or a Commercial Use Authorization, a type of business permit, but the process requires fees and paperwork. Therefore, the process is too extensive for many stables.

CWCR offers riding lessons, trail rides, boarding for private horses and birthday party accommodations.

Georgia Nicolet has owned the property since 1995, but opened it to the public in 2006. Nicolet is also a volunteer with San Bernardino search and rescue group.

With a $10,000 fine for unauthorized horseback riders in Joshua Tree, plus the expense of acquiring a permit, CWCR stays outside the park.

At right, Cottonwood Canyon Ranch guided trail ride with scenery. (Photo by Georgia Nicolet, owner of Cottonwood Canyon Ranch). Below, a horse camp sign at Black Rock campground (Photo by Stephanie Beyl).

Nicolet has ridden her own horses into Joshua Tree and says there is not much of a difference between riding in the park and on the outside. The sites are beautiful in both areas and according to customer testimonials, everything you need for an enjoyable horseback riding tour can be found at CWCR.

Whether on a tour or riding a private horse, riders must remember that they are in a desert, meaning the lack of available drinking water can be a challenge and a limitation for riders and horses alike. And since grazing is not permitted in the park, riders must remember to bring plenty of pellet feed. Preparation for a day in the desert requires preparing supplies; include water and feed.

Most riders come to the park on weekends and are from local residences in the community surrounding area that like ride their horses into the park.

“That has been a bit of an issue. If I live outside the park and I have a house with horses and I want to get to the park, I ride my horse into the park. Maybe I am riding on a street through the community, but where do I cross over? Access becomes an issue because there are designated trails," explained Joe Zarki, chief of Interpretation at Joshua Tree.

If a horseback rider is able to access the park, he or she will discover that by the west entrance they may enter the park at Quail Wash, Cactus Cove View and Burro Access; by the Black Rock area, riders may enter at the Hi-View Nature Trail, Machris Wash, Long Canyon and Little Long Canyon. However, given the example Zarki offered, locals may not be aware of these entrances.

Joshua Tree requests that horseback riders respect and use designated trails to prevent damage to the environment. The major problem is that horseback riders have made social trails over the years. 

“Social trails are not authorized park trails. They damage the vegetation, trample plants and creates a lot of extra bare soil, we already have a lot of bare soil in the desert and it creates even more, leading to erosion issues,” explained Zarki.

The park has had some issues regulating this in the past.

In 2000, the Backcountry and Wilderness Management Plan was created. The park was working on the plan for three years prior, holding a variety of public meetings to gauge input from various stakeholder groups about what they wanted to see in the plan.

The Backcountry and Wilderness Management Plan outlines the designated 253 miles of equestrian trails and trail corridors that spread across the open land, canyon bottoms and dry washes.

These riding trails are clearly marked for first timers. Another step to prevent damage is for riders to travel in single file.

Besides campground and trail restrictions, there are many other areas horses are not allowed, including in the Wonderland of Rocks, in picnic areas and at visitor centers.

Furthermore, according to the National Park Service, stock animals are not allowed within one-quarter mile of any water source.

Don’t forget to check the campsite for all your belongings before departing. Riders also can’t leave behind any manure. All horse feces must be removed from campgrounds and trailheads.

If a visitor does not have his or her own horse and would like to ride in the park, he or she might want to consider the alternative of riding just outside the park at a ranch like CWCR.

     
If You Go

Cottonwood Canyon Ranch: To arrange a trail ride with CWCR call 760-363-7475 or e-mail .(JavaScript must be enabled to view this email address). Trail rides are $65 per hour per person and arena lessons are $55 per hour. To learn more, visit: http://tophorseboarding.webs.com/trailrides.htm

Camping reservations: Reservations may be made Mondays through Fridays from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. by calling 877-444-6777 for Black Rock campground and 760-367-5545 for Ryan campground.

Permit: You can arrange for a permit by calling 760-367-5545.

Map: To view maps of the park, visit: http://www.nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/maps.htm

Hikers carve initials, damage park for all of us

TWENTYNINE PALMS, Calif. --- There are two photos that stand out in my album from our trip to Joshua Tree National Park. The first captures the engraved initials on the trunk of a palm tree at 49 Palms Oasis. The second shows painted petroglyphs on rocks near Barker Dam.

I did not take these pictures because I thought they complimented the beauty of the twisted Joshua Trees, or landscape view of the desert valley taken from the top of Ryan Mountain. On the contrary, they make a stark contrast to the natural form of the trees and the rocks found in the desert.

At right, the 49 Palms Oasis at Joshua Tree National Park. (Photos by Hannah Romig).

And so, I shot these pictures as a reminder; a reminder that we need to commit to preserving nature and human history in their original forms because the engraved palm and the ancient rock art display a violation of such efforts. They show how humans have had an impact on some of the most protected areas in the United States.

National parks like Joshua Tree seek a balance between maintaining a certain area of land and making it available to people for recreational activity. Because I favor this effort, it disappoints me to see park visitors abusing the privileges that the park grants in their access to places like 49 Palms and Barker Dam.

The hike up to 49 Palms Oasis was not easy. The path wound up and around a number of mountains and we were forced to shuffle down steep pathways after straining our calf muscles to reach the height of a peak.

At left above, visitors have carved their names and initials into fan palms at the 49 Palms Oasis. At left below, ancient petroglyphs left by Native Americans have been painted by modern-day visitors to the park. And below, another view of the painted petroglyphs.

In the end, however, the hike was very rewarding. The desert oasis was much more than I expected it to be with the number of palm trees and the puddles of water.

It felt like we had discovered a green paradise in a desert valley and within the dry, rocky mountainside.

I was so amazed at the sight of the oasis, which is why I think I felt taken aback when I saw that one of the palms had initials carved all over its trunk.

Our hike to Barker Dam was a similar experience. I felt so much anticipation in arriving to the well-known dam and reservoir that, at times, is filled with water, but along the way my trance of being in such a pure natural environment was broken when we saw painted petroglyphs in the crevice of a boulder.

I understand that this case of vandalism is a little bit different from the engraved tree trunk in that the dated signs have considerable historical value with an older human civilization in the area, but I was still uncomfortable with the human stamp on such natural formations. And, to make matters even worse, the ancient rock art had itself been defaced by more recent efforts to paint it and add color.

I would hate to return to Joshua Tree in the future and find that all palm trees and rocks are covered in graffiti.

Hannah Romig '13
University of Miami

Park’s trails appeal to bicyclists of all skill levels

By ROSA ORIHUELA
School of Communication
University of Miami

TWENTYNINE PALMS, Calif. --- Pumping the pedals up and down hills of rock-covered mountains while admiring the breath-taking high-desert landscape of Joshua Tree National Park is an invigorating way to exercise.

Joshua Tree offers bike riders miles of manageable bike trails full of views of the unique flora and fauna found in the park. The bike trails are perfect for bike riders who wish to train for races or who just want to relax. However, the trails are not meant for thrill seekers since biking is only allowed on paved or fire roads.

“Bikes are only permitted in roads that are open to vehicles. It is a service issue. They are still trying to work out some sort of service-wide policy across of the national parks about bikes. Until the policy is finalized, we cannot invest money to improve bike usage,” said Joseph Zarki, Joshua Tree’s chief of Interpretation.

Joshua Tree National Park has various trails for people to enjoy. Large groups are able to bike but they have to get a permit from the park (Photos by Rosa Orihuela).

The roads are not very wide and the older roads do not have wide shoulders, so it is not a good experience for a bike rider. If we add bike lanes on the road, the road gets a lot bigger and it impacts the environment. It is a trade-off. If we had wide roads, the turtles trying to cross will find it more dangerous,” he added.

Joshua Tree bike trails may not get the adrenaline pumping for some bike riders, but they do offer a pleasant biking experience. Bikers can explore desert plants and animals up-close in an environment that is out of this world. It is an unforgettable biking experience unlike any other.

“I ride through the bike lane to Cottonwood and I never had an issue. No requirements of skill, just wear a helmet. I like going downhill and uphill in Cottonwood. It is a nice ride,” said Pam Tripp, lead ranger for Cottonwood and Night Sky Program ranger.

Bike riders need to stay on established roads to protect the park’s natural features.

Bike riding is a family activity that everybody can do in Joshua Tree. Most bike roads are easy to moderate so everyone can enjoy a ride through the park.

Bicycle tire tracks on the open desert can last for years and can seriously spoil the landscape. Southern California has many places that offer legal single tracks, but Joshua Tree is not one of them. Bike riders who venture on backcountry trails will do a considerable damage to the environment.

Roads that are open for bike riders are narrow with soft shoulders.  It is important to pay close attention when rounding corners since curves, boulder piles and Joshua trees restrict the vision of the road.

Since bike riding is heavily restricted, it is not as popular as other activities but it stills draws large crowds.

“We do not discourage bike riding; numerous groups of bike riders come during the year. We ask them to get a permit from the park because they are going to be impacting traffic flow. We do that so we can give them support but individual bike riders do not need that,” said Zarki.

Mountain biking in the desert can be a strenuous activity, so bike rides must carry plenty of water to stay hydrated and safe. It is recommended to bring one gallon per person and two gallons for long or uphill trails.

Wearing a helmet is always necessary when riding a bike, but even more so in the desert. Falling in any of the tracks can cause a serious injury due to Joshua Tree’s rocky landscape. It is vital to take the proper precautions because open bike roads are very narrow with sandy shoulders, bumps and potholes.
 
“I tried to bike near the mountain, but the soil is like sand and it did not work. I did not bike much, but I enjoyed it,” said Jeff Mehert, a first-time park visitor from Wisconsin.

Most people bike to get around the park and as a way to exercise. It is not a rare sight to see RV’s with bikes in the back since people try to use their cars the least possible.

Due to the lack of visibility and the constant flow of RVs and trucks, bikes should have an extended side-view mirror. Joshua Tree gets very dark at night, so riders should wear reflective clothing as well.

Visitors can bring their own bikes or rent bikes from the nearby bike rentals in Palm Springs and Yucca Valley. The sport has higher demand during the winter season because the temperatures are comfortable compare to Europe.

 “Our peak demand months are between October and April when the weather is pleasant here and crummy in most other places in North America and Europe,” said Evan Trubee, a United States Cycling Federation racer and founder of Big Wheel Tours in nearby Palm Desert.

Even though, Joshua Tree is known for is hiking trails as the sport of mountain biking gains popularity more and more visitors are choosing to bike through the park. 

“We have seen more people interested in mountain biking and biking in general since we started in 1996,” said Trubee.

Joshua Tree offers several bike trails that range from easy to strenuous. For example, Old Lost Horse Road Trail is a manageable 4.5-mile round trip trail. It begins at Ryan Campground and travels through Lost Horse Valley to the Quail Springs Historic Trail. It offers scenic views and bike riders can see the different landscapes the park has to offer.

It was previously open to cars only, but a new re-vegetation plan has stopped the access of cars and allows bike riders to enjoy the trail.

A more strenuous trail is the 10-mile Thermal Canyon Bike Trail. This is the only trail in Joshua Tree that is open to bike riders and not horses. The trail takes the bike rider through the peculiar rock formations of the Cottonwood Mountains. The trail is very long, so riders who do not finish the trail on the first day can camp overnight as long as they are register at the Pleasant Valley Backcountry Board.

Most people who camp in Joshua Tree use bikes to get around and enjoy the different hiking and rock climbing trails. Helmets are not mandatory, but they are highly encourage.

Joshua Tree has many more bike trails to explore, but if visitors do not like long bike rides, bikes are usually use to get around the camp site as well.

“People come from all around to hike the trails. I mostly bike to get around, but it is a good exercise. Riding is awesome and invigorating,” said Mike Edwards, a California native who often visits the park.

Joshua Tree’s bike trails may not be the place for riders seeking off-road rough terrain trails. However, the trails are a perfect place for those riders who want to train for a race and get adjusted to the changes in altitude or for recreational bike riders seeking a relaxing ride.

The beauty and uniqueness of this Southern California desert will make any bike riding experience unforgettable.


If You Go

• Hours of Operation: Open 365 days a year but there are some areas with restricted access at night.
• Cost: There is a national park entry, fee but there are exceptions during the annual National Parks Week, held in April entry fees are waived in more than 100 parks nationwide.
• Location: The park is located in Twentynine Palms, Calif. Joshua Tree is north of I-10 near Palm Springs. It is 150 miles east of Los Angeles, 175 miles northeast of San Diego and 215 miles southwest of Las Vegas.
• How Long: Visits require a minimum of a few hours up to several days for camping
• Best Time to Visit: Spring and fall have the best weather.

Bike Trails (Joshua Tree Traveler):

• The main road through the park is a terrific road bike ride. It can be accessed through both the west and eastern park entrances. (Moderate)
• California Riding and Hiking Trail --- seven miles one way (Moderate)
• Old Lost Horse Road Trail --- five miles one way (Easy)
• Old Queen Valley Historic Road Trail --- 4.8 miles one way (Easy)
• Thermal Canyon Bike Trail --- 10 miles one way (Strenuous)
• Old Dale Road, a 23-mile 37.3-kilometer road. The first 11 miles cross the Pinto Basin, a flat sandy dry lakebed. Then a steep climb crosses the park boundary. A number of side roads go off to old mines and residences. The main road leads to State Highway 62 in 29 Palms. This bike trail requires camping. (Strenuous)
• Geology Tour Road. An 18-mile road that can be sandy.
• Black Eagle Mine Road.

A bit of etiquette at 38,000 feet goes a long way

On my way to Los Angeles from Miami, something happened to me that had never happened before on an airplane.

I had to deal with an out of control passenger. She was sitting behind me and she was extremely loud and obnoxious. She tormented me through the whole flight with her loud giggles. She moved around excessively and was constantly pulling my seat back.

I was horrified because people are usually extremely nice on a plane.

This experience made me realize that many people are not aware of airplane etiquette. On an airplane, sometimes we are confined to literally rub elbows with a complete stranger. In such a time, a little consideration can go along way to make both of your flights more enjoyable or at least less miserable. While traveling by air, it will be more confortable for everyone if we all follow this simples etiquette rules.

1. While entering the airplane and walking towards your seat keep your bag in front of you and low to the ground. If you hold it up and at your side, you will inevitably hit seated passengers on their arms or heads.

An American Airlines Boeing 777 at a gate at Los Angeles International Airport, being readied for a flight to Shanghai.

2. Always try to utilize the overhead compartment above your own seat row. If you use another compartment, then the passenger sitting near that compartment will have to wait until everyone has left the plane to get his or her bags. Taking the overhead compartment of another passenger is not only rude but it will delay departure as he or she searches for their misplaced bags.

3. Keep your chair upright at least until told that it can be reclined. Do not recline you chair as soon as you find your seat because you make it harder for the people behind you to access their seat. When reclining you chair be conscious of the person behind you. Check first if they have a tray or they getting something from their bag at their feet, you do not want to accidentally bump someone’s head or knock over a drink.

Be mindful if the person behind you is tall or has a child. If so, do not recline your seat all the way out of consideration. If you are tall, get a bulkhead or exit row seat so you can have more space. While traveling with children make sure they do not bump or kick the seat in front of them. Make sure the child has plenty of things to keep him/her busy.

When another passenger yanks at your seat and, after your ask him or her to stop, they refuse to do so, ask the flight attendant to handle the situation. If they can’t or won’t, then ask politely but urgently for the chief flight attendant so he/she can handle the situation.

4. While walking in the aisle, avoid grabbing the back of the seat in front of you. If you grab the seat back of another passenger, you are making it uncomfortable for him or her. Do as the flight attendants and balance yourself by grabbing the overhead luggage compartments.

5. The most important rule of etiquette is to respect personal space. If the person you are sitting next to does not want to chat then do not push for conversation. Some people just want to get work done or sleep. Be mindful of the volume of your iPod. When watching a movie in your personal laptop, remember that people behind you can see it, so respect them by not watching a film with high levels of nudity.

Be mindful of your elbows and do not hug all the armrest. Be courteous, of the people sitting in the middle since they have less space to begin with. Make sure you use your own armrest and outlet. Keep your stuff near you; do not have it spread out everywhere. If you are in an aisle seat, do not lean over to watch the view. Bring your own reading material; reading over someone’s shoulder is irritating and rude.

6. Be considerate of other passengers when exiting the plane. Do not push your way out. Let the person nearest to the exit disembark first. When your turn comes please exit the plane rapidly so other people can get to their connecting flights.

Following this advice will make your flight much smoother and comfortable. Being considerate of your fellow passengers is the best way to make your flying experience as pleasant as possible and, of course, reduces the chance that someone will not write a blog post about your complete lack of manners.

Rosa Orihuela '13
University of Miami

How to travel light in era of bag size limits, fees

Due to the many restrictions in weight and size for luggage imposed by airlines, not to mention high bag fees, it is vital to maximize space.

An extra bag can cause you more than $50. Or you might have to use two suitcases instead of one if it exceeds the weight requirement. When traveling to California recently, I had to pack a weekend’s worth of winter clothes in one carry-on bag. It was hard, but I managed by following these tips:

1. Try using garment bags for suits, sports coats and dresses. You can check this bag for a nominal fee when you get to the airport. By using a garment bag, you avoid cramming your outfit and you leave more stuff in your luggage.

2. Carry-on bags should served as a fallback if your luggage gets lost. Pack items you will need as soon as you land in your destination and essentials such as an extra pair of underwear. You can also pack your laptop, reading material or anything that will entertain you during the flight.

3. Try to put the outfit you are going to use first on top so you would not have to go through your entire bag to find what you need. Having your outfits ready to go is very important when you have limited time and you have a busy trip schedule. Packing your bag by outfit will save you time when you get to your destination and will remind yourself not to forget anything.

4. Knowledge is you best weapon to combat airline luggage fees. Find out if you are can bring one bag for free. Some airlines allow you to check in one bag for free but some charge you for every bag. Learn about the weight limits and size limitations. For example, on American Airlines flights, carry-on-bags have to be no bigger than a specific size. When I went to California, they made me place my bag in a size checker, but since I fly frequently, I was not worried. Know your rights and the policies for the airline you are using, do not let them overcharged you. You can find out airline bag policies by checking their Web sites.

5. Try to buy the travel-size toiletries so you can pack them in a small bag. If your shampoo is not sold in a small size, store the shampoo in plastic bag to prevent them from leaking. I lost a bottle of hairspray on my trip to California for not following the Transportation Security Administration rules. Every container can only be 3.4 ounces or less. However, medicine, breast milk and baby formula are exempt from this rule.

6. Airlines have cut back cabin service dramatically. My trip to California lasted almost five hours and the flight attendants only provided beverages. That is why if the trip is longer than two hours, it is a good idea to pack a sandwich or a small snack so you do not go hungry on the plane like I did. Try to buy your snack near home, if you wait until the airport, you will be stuck with the decision between a $17 sandwich and going hungry.

Rosa Orihuela '13
University of Miami

Search and rescue teams offer help when needed

By ANTONELLA STELLUTO
School of Communication
University of Miami

JACKSON HOLE, Wyo. --- Each year, thousands of people visit Grand Teton National Park during each of the seasons. Some visitors are in the park simply admire the striking landscapes, the lovely summer weather, or to have a relaxing vacation.

Others, the more adventurous types, decide to explore the wonders that the Teton mountains hold.

Whatever the reasons for visiting, safety must be practiced at all times since, in this nature’s masterpiece, accidents can, and do, occur.

Grand Teton National Park rangers conduct their regular short-haul training during the summer at Jenny Lake. In front of them is a litter used to carry injured people during rescues 150 feet below the helicopter (Photo courtesy of the National Park Service).

Ron Johnson, a climbing ranger at the Grand Teton National Park, has been working in the Jenny Lake Subdistrict for nearly 20 years. According to Johnson, last year there were approximately 25 to 35 search and rescues cases in the area from which at least 15 to 20 were considered major rescues.

Basically, any rescue that costs the government more than $500 is considered a major rescue. During winter season, major rescue cases can number from 10 up to 20 because of the storms and avalanches.

A recent winter search for Walker Kuhl and Gregory Seftick, two park visitors who went missing, cost approximately $119,000.

Rangers preparing to take off on the helicopter during their twice-a-month training at Grand Teton National Park (Photo courtesy of the National Park Service).

“This particular search for the two men, who were killed by an avalanche, took several days and required the use of both helicopters,” Johnson said.

Park rangers work hard to ensure that rescues can be done promptly and successfully. In order to achieve that goal, every season, especially during summer, rangers perform a short-haul training once every two weeks around the park to keep their proficiency intact.

“Short hauling is a complicated technique used to quickly transport rangers and injured people on a 150-foot line suspended from the helicopter’s base,” Johnson said. “It is mostly used in cases of emergency or in precarious situations.”

At right, Ron Johnson, a skilled ranger who works at Grand Teton National Park. Johnson has been working as a ranger in the Teton for 20 years (Photo by Antonella Stelluto). Below, the helicopter and litter take off during regular training early summer (Photo courtesy of the National Park Service).

Because the Teton mountains offer so many choices for every visitor age and skill level, rescues in the park can be just a simple sprained ankle or more serious cases such as falls during climbing and even lost and missing people.

In places as vast as the Grand Teton National Park, a rescue can take from an hour up to several days, depending on the circumstances. They take place on mountainsides, in valleys, and on the park's lakes and rivers.

“River rescues also occur in the Tetons,” Johnson said. “[In those cases], we do have boating rangers or some well-trained people to do such rescues.”

However, rangers do recommend some safety tips for visitors to guarantee a rewarding park experience.


Hiking in the Teton Mountains

• Always check the weather and route conditions before making any plan.
• If you are going to hike, bring al least one person with you. Hiking alone is not recommended.
• Always bring with you a map, extra water and clothes. They may be needed.
• Bring all the necessary equipment for hiking including, appropriate clothes.
• Tell to other people where you will be at before heading to your destination.
• If you want to stay away from bears, avoid making any noise while hiking.
• Always carry with you a bear spray.

Climbing in the Tetons

• Check the weather before making any plan or visit the Jenny Lake Ranger station for more information.
• Bring at least one person with you. Climbing alone is not recommended.
• Let others know the route you are planning to climb.
• Bring all the necessary equipment for climbing.
• Wear appropriate clothe for climbing.

Boating in the Tetons

• Check the weather conditions before making plans. Conditions at the Snake River can change hourly.
• Always wear a lifejacket.
• Check about the caution areas before boating.
• Bring all the equipment necessary (first aid kit, extra clothes, and so forth).
• River swimming is neither encouraged nor recommended.
• For further assistance on Snake River flows, call 800-658-5771 or check on the web.

A safe trip ultimately depends on visitor’s own actions and awareness. Visitors are completely responsible for their own actions and safety. However, if you get lost:

• Stay calm.
• If possible, try to let others know you are lost.
• Try to make some noise so other people can find you easier.
• If you are injured do not try to move around.
• Wear colorful clothes sometimes facilities the rescue.

Rugged Tetons offer much for photographers

By IKU KAWACHI
School of Communication
University of Miami

JACKSON HOLE, Wyo. – There’s little on a road map to suggest the strip of highway that runs some 18 miles from Moran Junction to Moose Junction with nary a turnoff in between — officially known as U.S. Routes 191/89/26 — offers anything of much scenic value.

The eastern-most area of the park is comprised largely of sagebrush flats that continue for mile after mile, interrupted only by the narrow, seemingly unexciting two-lane road. All of the park’s more famous lakes are to the west and north, as are the hiking trails and forests that have a reputation for being havens for wildlife.

Click on the video at the right to view a slideshow about landscape photography at Grand Teton National Park, prepared and produced by writer Iku Kawachi.

All of which explains why few peg the stretch of road as a typical spot for landscape photography. But take a minute to pull over to the gravel shoulder and step out on a day with good visibility: you just might be treated to a spectacular view of the Teton Range off in the distance, snow-capped mountains towering high over trees and roads. A herd of horses with chestnut, bay and white coats graze the bottomlands while vast sheets of wispy cirrus clouds pass slowly overhead.

Grand Teton National Park, a 310,000-acre national park just south of Yellowstone National Park in northwestern Wyoming, has built a substantial reputation for itself not only as a sanctuary for an impressive breadth of flora and fauna, but also for the breathtaking scenery it offers its visitors through a plethora of popular photography locations.

The southern and eastern sides of Jenny Lake allow shots of the Tetons reflected beautifully in the still lake (Photos by Iku Kawachi).

The abundance of landscape photography opportunities is, of course, due in no small part to the Teton Range, a mountain range belonging to the Rocky Mountains that dominates the geography of the park both literally and figuratively.

The tallest peak, the aptly named Grand Teton, has an elevation of 13,775 feet, but what makes the mountain seem even more impressive than other like-sized peaks is its comparative lack of foothills: With nothing to hinder one’s view, the eastern side of the Tetons rises up sharply, rather than gradually.

“It’s just so rugged and picturesque,” said Mark Gocke, photographer and public information specialist for the Wyoming Game and Fish Department. “It could very well be one of the most photographed mountain ranges in the world…. It’s a really unique photographic experience, and that’s why people come from all over the world.”

At right, vivid autumn colors and rugged peaks are two of the things often visible from the park's many walking trails. Next below, the seven-mile loop trail around Jenny Lake takes visitors only inches away from the water in places. And last, the stretch of Teton Park Road that runs alongside Jackson Lake provides spectacular views of the Teton Range.

Prominent western wildlife and landscape photographers like Gocke, Thomas Mangelsen and Henry Holdsworth have made a name for themselves by documenting some of the spectacular sights that can be witnessed throughout the confines of the park.

Naturally, the Tetons make for a popular subject, standing tall and regal on clear days and rising into thick cloud cover, keeping its snow-capped mountaintops hidden, on others.

There is much more to capturing the essence of Grand Teton National Park, though, than what Gocke describes as an “in-your-face” kind of mountain range.

Many of the images of you might see framed in public galleries or art collectors’ homes marry the geological wonder of the park with its diverse collection of wildlife. Some of most iconic photographs, for example, feature animals like elk and bison grazing in the foreground, with the Tetons creating an impossibly beautiful panoramic backdrop.

It is the seasonal changes, of course, that produce different spectacles each time one visits. Go in May at the beginning of the summer, for example, and see lupins, Indian paintbrush and other wildflowers blooming in valleys in an assortment of vivid purples, reds, and blues.

Or go in October, in the thick of autumn, and take in the equally stunning mix of yellow and orange leaves that create a scene that can almost resemble an impressionist painting from afar.

“Fall is hard to beat, just because of the aspen and the colors that you get here,” Gocke said. “There are a lot of photography workshops that time of year.”

Many of the more popular sites for landscape photography can be found either around any of the park’s several lakes or close to its main paved roads, making them relatively accessible to all visitors.

The loop trail around Jenny Lake, for example, offers spectacular views of not only the serene lake, but also of numerous peaks of more than 11,000 feet to the west and towering pines and deciduous trees that create a surreal scene when they shed their leaves in the fall.

The complete trail is relatively flat and only a hair over seven miles in length, making it ideal to embark on in a single afternoon for many.

Even those who prefer to navigate such scenic locations by car have an abundance of options available to them, with spots like the Oxbow Bend Turnout just east of Jackson Lake Junction and the Schwabacher Landing further south on U.S. Routes 191/89/26 some of the more well-known spots for shooting the Tetons from the east in daylight.

“If I had to pick one spot, it would probably be Oxbow Bend,” Gocke said. “There’s a classic Teton shot where there’s a beautiful aspen grove that reflects in the oxbow [of Snake River] itself … it’s one of the shots you have to get if you come to Grand Teton National Park.”

More than a few photography enthusiasts and aficionados of scenery visit Grand Teton National Park for its stunning sunrises and sunsets, of course. While there is, without doubt, another world of photographic opportunities for those willing to trek up the backcountry trails west of Teton Park Road or even scale the mountains, there are several locations that offer such views without being nearly as physically demanding.

The Teton Point Turnout is listed prominently on park guides as one of the best spots for photography at both dusk and dawn, and the summit that lies at the end of the winding Signal Mountain Road on the east side of Jackson Lake, some 7,727 feet above sea level, provides an excellent vantage point for sunsets.

But there is something to be said for walking along some of the less-popular trails or driving around the park without a predetermined destination. Sure, the photography spots officially endorsed by the visitor centers at Grand Teton or recommended by fellow photographers and park gurus might offer spectacular scenery, but there is nothing that says one can’t come across an equally breathtaking sight on his or her own.

“That’s the beauty, and what I find rewarding, about landscape photography,” Gocke said. “It really challenges you to be artistic, to find unique light.”

The potential payoff — capturing a scene from an angle not copied by the thousands of digital camera-armed visitors who pass through each year — makes the search well worth the time, and then some.

Other Notable Spots
The following are a few of the more worthwhile landscape photography spots within the park that were not mentioned above:

Cascade Canyon Turnout
What it is: A turnout on Teton Park Road east of Jenny Lake and roughly 1.7 miles north of Jenny Lake Visitor Center.
What you will see: Considered a great spot at dawn as sun sets between Mount St. John and Teewinot Mountain across Jenny Lake; excellent vantage point of Teton Range.

Blacktail Ponds Overlook
What it is: An overlook off of U.S. Routes 191/89/26 1.2 miles north of Moose Junction and 1.7 miles from the Craig Thomas Discovery and Visitor Center.
What you will see: Good point at both dawn (as the morning sunlight is cast over the opposing Teton Range) and dusk (as the sun sets behind the mountains).

Manges Cabin at Taggart Creek
What it is: A cabin built by settler James Manges in 1911. The Taggart Creek Trailhead is 3.4 miles north on Teton Park Road from the Craig Thomas Discovery and Visitor Center.
What you will see: The cabin, or “barn,” is a great subject at all times of the day, particularly with Teewinot Mountain or Mount St. John to the north providing the backdrop.

Snake River Overlook
What it is: An overlook roughly halfway between Moran Junction (9.4 miles to the north) and Moose Junction (8.4 miles to the south) on U.S. Route 191/89/26 providing a view of the river from above.
What you will see: Particularly good spot for capturing sunrises over the mountain to the east, but is also popular at dusk. Spot was “immortalized” by a photo taken by Ansel Adams of Snake River.

Autumn is magical in Grand Teton mountains

JACKSON HOLE, Wyo. --- Grand Teton National Park is definitely a place that is worth to see at any time of the year. Yet, Fall seems to work its special magical over the Teton mountains.

At right. autumn colors dot Grand Teton National Park on an October day. Below, an autumn morning landscape in Moose, Wyo. Aspens, conifers and pines dominate the vegetation during Fall. Last, a sign welcomes visitors to Wyoming (Photos by Antonella Stelluto).

The large stands of trees that surround the Tetons such, as the cottonwoods that border the banks of the Snake River or the Aspens that cover the hillsides and moist areas of the park, and the various species of willow let its leaves blaze transforming the lake and valley into yellowish and reddish carpets during the Fall.

The snow slowly begins to drape the mountain peaks of the Tetons with delicate white blankets.

Weather is absolutely perfect during the fall, especially if you come from Florida or elsewhere with tropical climate.

August is considered the warmest month at Jackson, Wyo., despite the chilly early mornings and nighttimes that are expected during this season.

Yet, the cold temperatures are nothing that a good cup of hot tea or cocoa can’t help you go through. For the most part, days are sunny and bright and temperatures are pretty cozy in most areas of the park.

Fall in the Tetons lasts for a short period of a month or two, starting in September and finishing in mid-October.

However, fall depends on the climatic conditions, which sometimes can extend or shorten the season. These environmental conditions are what ultimately determine fall colors in the Tetons.

While no one can predict with precision yet when the peaks of fall colors can be seen at the Teton, generally, the last two weeks of September are set as the standard. So, if you want nourish your senses and explore the many wonders this park holds, autumn may be just the right season for you to visit this national beauty.

Antonella Stelluto '12
University of Miami

Visitors drawn to Joshua Tree for stargazing

By HANNAH ROMIG
School of Communication
University of Miami

TWENTYNINE PALMS, Calif. --- Pam Tripp started to explore outer space in 2009. Since then, she has traveled to the moon, has seen Andromeda Galaxy and has beheld the planets Mars and Jupiter. 

Tripp however, is not an astronaut or even an imaginative astrophysicist. She is an interpretative park ranger at Joshua Tree National Park and the lead ranger of their night sky program.

“I had a little bit of background before I started doing this, just my own personal interest in the night sky. I’ve always loved the stars and I knew what the Big Dipper and Orion’s Belt was. But even as I’ve been doing these programs, I’ve learned some of the new constellations and what’s in them as far as clusters and nebulas and different things,” said Tripp.

While Joshua Tree is emblemized by the short, twisted-branched trees that scatter across more than 550,000 acres of desert land, 29 percent of its visitors arrive with the intent of witnessing the night sky, visitation research conducted at the park has shown.

During the day, people are seen hiking along a trail or climbing the large boulders that dominate the dry setting, but once the sun sets, there is no where to look but up. The remoteness of the desert shields the park from heavy light pollution, allowing even the dimmest of stars to be spotted.

In recognizing the growing popularity of star gazing in the park, Tripp led the initiative to install an official night sky program at Joshua Tree. The earlier programs were conducted without any training and focused on the current conditions of the sky. Tripp stuck to outlining the visible constellations and the whereabouts of an orbiting space shuttle with a laser pointer.

It wasn’t until a weeklong training session in Bryce Canyon National Park in Utah that Tripp and other rangers learned how to effectively present a viewing of the night sky. They upgraded from laser pointers to solar powered GPS telescopes and are now able to identify a variety of galaxies and star clusters for eager stargazers.

“We had to do a 10-minute program for our training where we had to pick one constellation, pick two interesting things about it and do a presentation as if the audience was our group,” said Tripp. “Even with all the fancy equipment, I like to point out constellations to people as they are looking up, and the laser pointer is still the most popular piece of equipment we have.”

Equipment is one key factor for the stargazing programs that is not always reliable. Weather is the other.

“The most stressful thing that has happened is when the equipment doesn’t work right. We joke around that our telescope is possessed. There have been nights where it just won’t align,” said Tripp. “ You just have to realize that this could happen and ask yourself, ‘What will I do if it does happen?’ ”

Tripp has learned that it is important to be flexible in a job where you are unable to control the circumstances. Negative weather conditions, as well as a full, bright moon, have the power to decrease star visibility on a night when a program is scheduled. As a visitor, however, you should not conclude that the night program has been cancelled due to such conditions.

On cloudy nights, Tripp maps out what the sky would look on a clear night so that visitors know what to look for the next time they get the chance to observe the stars. On one occasion, when the light from a full mooned drowned out the stars, she pretended to lead a group of Boy Scouts on a moonwalk.

“I basically said we are going on a trip to the moon. It was a full moon out and so the Joshua trees became the moon trees, which were these seeds that had orbited the moon on one of the space missions and had been planted once they got here. Then we got to a rock formation and I said, ‘now we are at the highest mountain on the moon.’ And so I just changed everything and it was fun,” said Tripp.

“You can definitely do a program about the moon too and point a telescope at it. It’s really bright and that’s the one thing you’ll come away with: the moon shining in your eye,” she added.

Ideal stargazing conditions call for a cloudless night with only a portion of the moon emitting light.

According to Joseph Zarki, chief of Interpretation at Joshua Tree, light pollution has had an increasing effect on visibility and it is another issue that poses a threat to the success of future night sky programs.

When Joshua Tree National Park was established in 1936, it adopted the goals of preserving desert plants and preserving historic and cultural features of the park, but the concern for night skies just did not exist.

“No one was really thinking about the skies in 1936 because Los Angeles was a much smaller place. The night skies were probably fantastic back in those days. But now, 75 years later, LA is this huge urban metropolis. You can’t see the stars at night because of all the lights, so all of the sudden [light pollution] has become a big deal,” said Zarki.

Tripp reminds visitors that while light pollution is a challenge, a threat that they can help undermine by purchasing different light fixtures and turning off lights. 

“Just a small bit to help prevent light pollution can be changing light bulbs to lower wattage and using light fixtures that point the light down and don’t let light escape up. The night sky is the one thing that is 100 percent recoverable,” said Tripp.

Outside of the scheduled programs, stargazing societies such as the Andromeda Society and the Desert Videographers enjoy the sky by organizing star parties and projecting images on screens for everyone to see. Visitors like John and Mike Edwards also observe the night sky whenever they spend the weekend camping in the park.

“I don’t know much about what’s up there, but I can tell when we have a good siting of the Big Dipper. I only read up on a few of the constellations, but it really makes not difference to me,” said Mike Edwards. “The expanse of what’s up there is just awesome.”

Despite the free ability to observe the stars at night, Joshua Tree’s night program draws crowds of about 50 to 100 people. Zarki feels that while stargazing was not an originally key attraction for Joshua Tree, it is certainly developing into a tradition that must be preserved.

“It’s an interesting thing because lying out in the desert looking up at the stars really kind of connects you in a way that makes you feel small. It’s almost a spiritual kind of experience and anytime we do a night time event at the park, we have large crowds, so it has turned out to be pretty important for us,” said Zarki.



If You Go

Joshua Tree National Park
74485 National Park Dr.
Twentynine Palms, Calif. 92277

• Night sky programs are free of charge
• To see the program schedule, visit http://www.nps.gov/jotr

What’s with the cage in the middle of the desert?

TWENTYNINE PALMS, Calif. --- My trip to Joshua Tree National Park in California was my first visit to a desert.

Although the fan palm oases were a wonder in and of themselves, I was truly surprised by all of the different and numerous plants that I saw in the area. Joshua trees of all different sizes covered a good amount of the sandy terrain, as well as other smaller desert bushes and cacti.

One of the things I found most interesting about all of this desert vegetation was the effort the park staff makes to protect the plants.

As I explored some of the campgrounds, I kept noticing tiny plants, some no taller than five inches, surrounded by a short metal fence. After a full day of wondering where these plants came from, I finally found a sign that answered my question: “What’s with the cage?”

Joshua Tree National Park managers hope a small wire cage, such as this one at right, will protect young and fragile desert plants that are being placed throughout campgrounds (Photo by Kelsey Pinault).

The park staff plants these young bushes and trees to “better delineate the space, to create more privacy for [the] campers, and to preserve the natural landscape.”

The sign also explained that the cages are meant to protect these young plants until they can survive on their own and to prevent any accidental disturbances to their growth.

With a park that covers more than 1,235 square miles, I find it amazing that staff and volunteers find the time and have the dedication to do this. The chief of Interpretation at the park, Ranger Joe Zarki, explained to me that when any construction is done or areas with foliage are disturbed, they will carefully remove the plants in the area and attempt to replant them to restore the natural landscape when the area is safe again.

“We have a plant nursery here to grow plants that are native to the park. Whenever there is damage from ecological restoration or construction, we go the extra mile to dig and box up the plants so we can help them recover,” Zarki told me.

This place is more than just a park to the people who work and volunteer here. The staff’s passion in keeping every part of Joshua Tree at its best as well as providing amazing amounts of knowledge of the area, made my experience truly memorable.

Throughout my trip I gained an entirely new perspective of this national park and it all started with a little tree in a cage.

Kelsey Pinault ‘12
University of Miami

Hidden Valley visit leads to secret dinner treasure

TWENTYNINE PALMS, Calif. --- While walking around the Hidden Valley trail loop, I never expected to get a promising dinner suggestion from an local couple. The couple has lived in Twentynine Palms for about eight years and raved that our class try Pappy and Harriet's Pioneertown Palace in nearby Pioneertown.

Claiming that Pioneertown is known for being the film location of classic Western movies, they assured that we would enjoy the scene.

After telling the rest of the class and our professors, we all agreed we would trust the locals. Driving down the dark windy road, with no streetlights and rock formations towering on either side, was not the most comforting start to our evening.

Click on the video at the right to view a slideshow about Pappy & Harriet's Pioneertown Palace located near Joshua Tree National Park. The slideshow was photographed and produced by writer Stephanie Beyl.

It seemed like we were driving to nowhere, shocking us that something appeared even more remote than Twentynine Palms out in Southern California's Mojave Desert. Following the GPS, we heard our stomachs rumbling and hoped we made the right choice.

The final turn assured us we had found it. A brightly lit old restaurant was ahead. Too many cars had tried to fit themselves into the lot, but thankfully we found parking. Our faces lit up as we got out of the car, not only from the appearance of this popular restaurant, but from the smell of BBQ in the air and the unmistakable sound of country music.

Still adjusting from the Miami heat and humidity, we ran inside from what we considered “freezing” desert weather. We all peaked our heads inside like little children trying to spy on Santa.

We definitely did not belong to this crowd, but we wanted to. Women could easily be spotted in boots and men in cowboy hats.

Once seated, our entire group gawked at the menu. It was filled with everything from soups and salads, to pulled pork sandwiches and steaks. Side dishes of garlic mashed potatoes and coleslaw made our mouths water.

We ordered as quickly as we could, but were easily distracted when served our beverages. All drinks were served in Mason jars, something we definitely did not see in the city of Miami.

A musician performs as part of the band at Pappy & Harriet's Pioneertown Palace near Joshua Tree National Park (Photo by Stephanie Beyl).

While waiting for our dinner, we watched the band. The lead singer guzzled a beer before he started. The lights were low and gradually people made their way from the bar to the dance floor. The type of dancing was also new to us. I chose to snap pictures of my classmates as they enjoyed the tunes, possibly to avoid dancing myself.

When we returned to the table, the food was as tasty as we expected. We had juicy meats, flavorful sauces, vegetables, and the comfort of country cooking.

We were even intrigued by the bathroom, which had saloon style doors, but thankfully with locks. The front of each door was hand painted with a different scene and inside the stalls the walls were covered with handwritten notes from customers.

The billiard room with an old piano only added to the atmosphere of this hidden treasure. While our trip to Twentynine Palms was a quiet get away from Miami, we definitely managed to find a little bit of celebration in Pioneertown.

Stephanie Beyl
University of Miami '12

Artists find inspiration living in Big Cypress

Rangers play necessary role in Everglades

Rough weather turns snorkel trip into island tour

Bicycling at Grand Teton popular with park visitors

By SANDY FLOREZ
School of Communication
University of Miami

MOOSE, Wyo. -- With smoothly paved trails, crisp 60-degree temperatures and views that look as if a desktop screensaver came to life, it is no wonder why bicycling is one of Grand Teton National Park’s most popular activities.

Along with the John D. Rockefeller, Jr., Memorial Parkway, the bicycle-friendly park offers more than 100 miles of paved roads and an eight-mile pathway. Whether you are looking for an intense and rugged cycling session through mountain terrain or prefer a more relaxing ride through the scenic road pathways, the park ensures that your level of expertise is accommodated.

Click on the image at the right to view a video about bicycling in Grand Teton National Park photographed and edited by writer Sandy Florez.

However, deciding what season to visit the park is crucial to fully enjoying the parks resources. 

For instance, a visit in mid-October can be a rewarding experience so long as you keep in mind that the park’s off-season begins Oct. 1.

Of course, this should not deter anyone from visiting the park, since there exists numerous upsides to an off-season Grand Teton adventure. To begin with, summer crowds are long gone, which means you have approximately 310,000 acres at your disposal (or at the very least, the pathways are much quieter).

With fewer crowds, biking through the park becomes a much more intimate experience that allows you to truly immerse yourself in the parks wonders – from wildlife to flora.

A pair of bicyclists ride the marked path along the east side of the Grand Teton mountains just north of Moose in Grand Teton National Park (Photo by Zongchao Li).

“This is my third time biking through Jenny Lake, but I have to say it is my favorite,” said Janelle Frey, 34, who is visiting her in-laws in the nearby town of Jackson Hole. “The weather is perfect – not too hot, not too cold and there aren’t many people around blocking pathways. What more can we ask for?”

Well, for some visitors, the need for bike rentals might be one thing.

Because of the park’s off-season beginning in October, bike rentals are not available at the park’s on-site adventure shop, Dornan’s. Instead, visitors must visit bicycle shops in Jackson Hole such as the popular Fitzgerald Bicycles and Hoback Sports that do not offer delivery services to the park itself. 

Matt Schlim, who works for Fitzgerald Bicycles, believes there is no better place to go biking than alongside the Grand Teton range.

“Have you looked outside? This is a biker’s paradise!” said Schlim, who has worked at the store since he was just 12 years old.

Pathways are paved evenly for smooth bicycle rides. The Teton Park Road stretches for approximately nine miles and is a favorite among bicyclists. Next, signs ensure the safety of visitors. Last, Janelle Frey, 34, takes a break from riding with her father-in-law (Photos by Sandy Florez).

It’s hard not to agree -- there isn’t a corner of Grand Teton that doesn’t induce awe. In fact, the suggested trails for riding bike each offer unique views of the park.

For example, there is the River Road route, a 15-mile gravel road alongside the west side of Snake River where sightings of wildlife like bison is common.

It’s good for mountain biking. Then there is also the Teton Park Road route, a one-way, southbound three-mile ride through the Jenny Lake area that offers views of the Teton’s highest peaks. 

But with plenty of route options as it is, Grand Teton National Park has signed off on yet another route that has caused a stir among the parks visitors, staff and nearby locals.

The plan that is currently underway involves the implementation of a four-mile pathway directly from the city of Jackson Hole north to the entrance of the park, and another eight miles past the entrance to Moose, site of the Craig Thomas Discovery and Visitor Center.

The new trail that is expected to open in July 2012, will make accessibility into the park even safer and easier on a bicycle.

However, some believe that the pathway will interfere with the park’s wildlife and migration habits since it passes the western border of the National Elk Refuge on the north side of Jackson Hole.

Despite differing opinions about the park’s multi-use pathway expansion, there is one thing all bike enthusiasts can agree on: pedaling alongside the Grand Teton range is an unforgettable experience no matter what path you take.



If You Go

Where to rent bikes:

Dornan’s in Moose
Phone: 307-733-2415
Address: 12170 Dornan Road, Moose, Wyo. 83012

Fitzgerald Bicycles
Phone: 307-734-6886
Address: 245 W. Hansen St., Jackson Hole, Wyo. 83001

Hoback Sports
Phone: 307-733-5335
Address: 520 W. Broadway Ave., #3, Jackson Hole, Wyo. 83001


When to Ride Bikes:

The National Park Service recommends:

Spring:  April-June
Days are cool and cloudy with rain showers and occasional snow.

Summer:  July-August
Weather is generally good for bicycling with mid-day temperatures 70 – 80 degrees. Afternoon thundershowers may form quickly with heavy rain and dangerous lightning.

Fall:  September-early October
Days are often clear and cool, but rain and snow showers frequently occur.

Bike safety regulations: Wear a helmet at all times, Ride bicycles only on roadways, not on trails (trail riding is not permitted). Ride on the right side of the road in single file. Obey the rules of the road at all times. Use hand signals to communicate with drivers.

What to bring: Water bottles, comfortable shoes (sneakers), bear spray.

Grand Teton Contact Center: 307-739-3611.

Jackson Hole: We’re not in Miami, anymore, Toto

JACKSON HOLE, Wyo. --- When you live your entire life surrounded by palm trees, Cuban accents and beach weather year-round, the mere sight of a cowboy hat makes you want to take out your Canon and play tourist.
     
A Miamian wandering the small but lively historic center of Jackson Hole, Wyo., is probably more surprising to its locals than seeing a bear at a stoplight. But no matter what big city you hail from, Jackson’s charm is hard to ignore. The mix of mom and pop shops with contemporary art galleries makes venturing through the town a truly fun and surprising adventure.

Although my long jet-black hair and designer boots might have been given my tourist identity away, it was refreshing to find that it didn’t stop locals from sparking conversation. That’s one plus about small town living versus big city: people are actually really, really nice.

Click on the image at the right to view a short video of Jackson Hole, Wyo. photographed and produced by writer Sandy Florez.

Of course, exploring Jackson’s historic center wouldn’t be nearly as fun if I didn’t document it. I made a short video that features some of the gorgeous views on my walk through Grand Teton National Park’s pathways, a quick stop my roommate Nella Stelluto and I made at local favorite Moo’s Gourmet Ice Cream shop, and the delicious dinner our group enjoyed on our last evening in town at the Snake River Brewery.

Although I never thought I would make my way from the Sunshine State to Moose Country, I have a feeling I’ll find my way back there one day (I mean, I’m already craving that Almond Brittle Crunch ice cream!)

Sandy Florez
University of Miami '12

Macroalgae exhibit reveals colors of Biscayne Bay

Seasonal wildflowers give color to Teton region

By ANTONELLA STELLUTO
School of Communication
University of Miami

JACKSON HOLE, Wyo. --- Few landscapes in the world are striking and remarkable as that of Grand Teton National Park. Rising abruptly from the ground of the valley, the mountains give to visitors a testimony of the nature’s magnificence.

But, as striking as the mountains, lakes and wildlife are, for me, it is the park’s wildflowers that truly add that last subtle touch to this natural masterpiece.

Click on the video at the right to view a slideshow about the flora of Grand Teton National Park prepared by writer Sandy Florez. Photography by Antonella Stelluto and some images courtesy of the National Park Service.

During my short trip on early October to Grand Teton National Park near here, I was now and then uploading to my cell phone some photos of the places I was visiting, the town I was staying at, the little things that caught my attention and of the nature itself, which is breathtaking enough to turn any picture into a great desktop screensaver.

The response from my friends was straight away. Within seconds, I received a message from a friend, Nathalie.

“What an amazing landscape,” she wrote. “The explosion of colors is what makes the picture even more awesome.”

Musk thistle at the Grand Teton National Park tend to be confused with Canada thistle, which are similar looking thistles. These exotic red flowers grow up to six feet tall, and can form dense stands in open fields (Photo courtesy of the National Park Service).

And the flora of the Grand Teton mountains is indeed awesome.

If you visit the Teton, especially during summer, you would soon realize than wildflowers are just like a colorful fancy gown that the Grand Teton only wears once a year. A display of reds, oranges, yellows, whites, pinks, blues and purples dresses the ground and mountainsides of the park.

The blooming of wildflowers of the Grand Teton region can vary each time in intensity, duration and prominence of the species. Yet, there are several types of wildflowers that loyalty show up each year.

Flowering in June, Balsamroots grow in large conspicuous bunches with stems up to 2 feet tall. These yellow wildflowers are very showy in the park. They often cover entire meadows or hillsides in early summer (Photo courtesy of the National Park Service)

The National Park Service estimates that more than 1,000 species of plants and wildflowers grow in Grand Teton National Park and its surrounding areas.

Throughout summer, snow gradually disappears up the mountain slopes. As the snow melts, wildflowers start, little by little, to color the different regions of the Teton. The wildflowers usually bloom from May through September and, on occasions, can last until late August.

The warm weather arrives first in the Jackson Hole Valley. Yet, there are only 60 to 70 frost-free days a year in most areas of the park. For that reason, most flowers appear for only a short time and the seasonal displays of color occur rapidly.

At right, one-flower Helianthellas bloom in small bunches with stems as tall as four feet. These yellow wildflowers look very similar to sunflowers. Hilianthellas can be found in moist meadows, especially close to aspen trees that are near water. Next below, with the arrival of fall, the varieties of deciduous trees provide beautiful colors, which complement Teton itself. Colored foliage of aspens and golden willows adorn many areas (Photos courtesy of the National Park Service).

“Flowers start to lose their petals with the arrival of fall,” said Nick Myers, a plant expert and ranger of the Craig Thomas Discovery and Visitor Center at Moose at the park’s south entrance.

Summer is definitely the opportunity for admire all kind of wildflowers at the Teton from the rarest flower species, which strangely can be found on the most frequently visited areas of the park, to the most common ones.

“Rabbitbrush is probably the most common seasonal flower in the park,” said Myers. “Another common wildflower found in meadows and near sagebrush is the Silvery Lupine.”

Luckily, those who visit the Grand Teton during late August and early October still have a chance to find several wildflowers, rare and common, adorning the hillsides and different areas of the park before the first autumn frost arrives.

“The common wildflowers often line the trails through conifer forests, mark the streams and springs in the foothills, or highlight meadows in the mountain canyons,” wrote Charles Craighead, a natural history writer and author of the Common Wildflowers of Grand Teton National Park.

From September through late October temperature start to cold down. The average daily temperature at the Teton is 62 degrees, although it can significantly decrease during nighttime. Warm sunny days can be commonly interrupted with rain showers or snow.

A variety of factors, such as soil conditions, availability of moisture, or elevation is what ultimate determine where plants grow.

In Grand Teton National Park, there are three distinct zones where the flowers grow – the forest floor, the sagebrush valley and the alpine zone.

“Blooms range from entire meadows of waist-high flowers to single, dwarf alpine plants,” wrote Craighead.

Many species of wildflowers and plants in general require similar conditions to flourish, which is the reason why different variety of flowers can all be seen in the same area.

The rocky soil floor of Jackson Hole Valley, for instance, provides the ideal environment for silvery-green big leaf sagebrush to grow.

The Snake River or other wetland areas are the home of many moisture-loving plants.

At right, snow covers higher slopes of the Grand Teton National Park during early October. The park preserves a spectacular landscape abounding in magnificent mountains, lakes and extraordinary wildlife and vegetation. Next below, aspen is one of the most beautiful trees in the park. During the fall, aspen leaves turn into different range of yellows. The Snake River has a beautiful display of fall colors. Last, Parry primroses growth in the mountains of the park are relatively large in size. Flowers normally spread out in small bunches of three to 10 flowers (Photos by Antonella Stelluto).

Moist meadows, for instance, offer the suitable conditions for grasses, sedges and several white wildflowers like white mules ear, Englemann aster, Colorado columbine and Rocky Mountain parnassia, just to name a few.

The conditions at canyons, mountainsides and hills support the growth of trees. Conifers trees dominate these areas, coloring the landscape with dark greenish tones and adding a unique smell, to this already perfect environment, that can not be bought in any essence’s store.

The alpine zone’s wildflowers are generally very small and grow close to the ground.

“The alpine zone, it’s really special. They get a very short window of opportunities to grow flowers,” Myers said. “This year, for instance, the snow did not melt until the middle of August so, they only had as little as one month to grow.”

If you are looking for really eye-popping flower colors, then look for some of the following list of wildflowers when you visit the Grand Teton or surrounding areas.

Some of them can only be admired for a very short period of time, but they are definitely worth enough to make the visit:

• The Lewis monkeyflowers, which have an outstanding combination among bright yellow center and its five rose-pink petals. These pink wildflowers can be normally fond in moist areas or lying over the water.
• The wild rose is a very bright fuchsia and yellow flower that can be found in many areas of the park. Its fruit is an important food for the wildlife during winter.
• Blue penstemons belong with the purple and blue wildflower family. These flowers can be seen in different places, preferably in dry or open ground areas of the park. Their color can range from deep blue to paler tones like lavender.
• Yellow monkeyflowers are very bright yellow flowers that can vary in size and shape with its location. The small red spots on its petals aim to attract insect pollinators.
• The alpine forget-me-not is the official Grand Teton National Park. It is my absolute favorite because of its bright blue-purplish color. It is hard and rare to see flowers that can displays true blue color

“These seasonal flowers do not change their colors,” Myers said.  “Their color and shape play very specific factors in the pollination process.”

Because all plants and animals are important part of the ecosystem, show some respect for them is extremely valued at the Teton Park. While you are visiting, avoid going across wildflower fields. Aim to preserve the vegetation for others to enjoy.

Grand Teton National Park is certainly a unique place. The minute I started to admire its picture-perfect scene through the window of the car, I understood how the many hours of travel I spent to get there more than worth it.


If You Go

• What: Grand Teton National Park
• Where: U.S. Routes 26/89/191, Jackson Hole, Wyo., 83012
• When: From June through early October

Jackson Hole’s art scene focuses on western theme

By DARCI MILLER
School of Communication
University of Miami

JACKSON HOLE, Wyo. – Stepping into Jackson Hole is like taking a step back in time.

A quaint little town situated on the outskirts of Grand Teton National Park, there are fewer than 9,000 residents.

It might come as a bit of a shock to find out that Jackson is actually a major art hub. Known as the “Art Center of the Rockies,” it is home to nearly 30 galleries featuring everything from small local artists to those with international acclaim, as well as several Old Masters.

This photo was taken by David Brookover in Wyoming and can be seen in the Bookover Gallery in Jackson Hole (Photos by Darci Miller).

“I understand it’s the fifth-largest art city west of the Mississippi,” said Scott Jones, general manager of the Legacy Gallery in Jackson’s historic town center. “I can believe that. There’s a lot of art sold here in this town, a lot of galleries.”

The community has hosted Art Fair Jackson Hole since 1965. The art scene has only blossomed since then, with the Legacy Gallery opening in 1988.

“It’s really grown in the last six years,” said David Brookover, owner of The Brookover Gallery. “It’s become a lot more contemporary… for years, it was very traditional.”

Traditional artwork is still a mainstay in most galleries, with western art being the prevalent theme. It’s a rare occasion to walk into a gallery and not be greeted with a mountain landscape or wildlife piece.

“Cowboy, Native American, western landscapes are the core of what we do here in Jackson,” Jones said. “Wildlife is very popular here. Jackson is definitely a wildlife capital.”

At left, this oil painting by artist Gary Lynn Roberts hangs in Legacy Gallery. Below, a piece seen in RARE Gallery is by artist Michael Kalish and is made out of license plates. Kalish frequently uses license plates in his work. Last, there are a number of pieces by Old Masters featured in Jackson Hole galleries. This was done by Pablo Picasso and hangs in RARE Gallery.

The Legacy Gallery is one of the more traditional galleries in Jackson Hole. Its artwork is largely oil paintings and bronze sculptures.

“We deal with very representational artwork,” said Jones. “That attracts artists from all over the world who want to paint representational work.”

Indeed, he mentions that the gallery features few local artists, with work coming from as far as Australia.

Even the more contemporary galleries are not immune to Jackson’s tradition of western art. The RARE Gallery of Fine Art is one such example. It prides itself on representing “art for the New West,” and has been open for six years.

“The theme [of the gallery] would be a western contemporary,” said Alicia Picichio, a gallery employee. “There’s still a western feel to it, to keep true to the area.”

Looking around, though, it is evident that the RARE Gallery is a little bit different. Grizzly bears are painted in bright, bold colors, Native Americans are photographed in typical Andy Warhol fashion, horses are drawn onto pages torn out of books, and Abraham Lincoln is depicted in a star-spangled top hat. While western art may typically be representational, that’s clearly not all there is to it.

“[Rick and Hollee Armstrong, the gallery owners] do everything from traditional to contemporary, and they do brand new artists that have never been discovered before, and they do masters,” Picichio said. “Rick just wanted to bring in the most interesting, diverse pieces.”

Included in the collection at RARE Gallery is a room containing Ansel Adams’ first portfolio, dating back to 1927. This portfolio, called Parmelian Prints of the High Sierras, is one of the 20th century’s most important pieces of landscape photography.

Right next door, in the next room, are works by Monet, Picasso, Rembrandt, and other masters. These rooms are locked most of the time due to the value of the works inside. However, Picichio is more than happy to show visitors inside should they ask.

The Brookover Gallery, on the other hand, is filled entirely with Brookover’s own photography. After working for Fujifilm in Japan for a number of years, he relocated to Jackson and opened his gallery 10 years ago.

“It’s a great area,” he said. “After living in a town with millions of people, I was ready for a little peace and quiet.”

Brookover displays photographs he’s taken at locations all over the world, from Kyoto to Colorado to right next door in Grand Teton National Park.

“Folks from the East Coast, especially New York, gravitate to the earlier processes,” said Brookover. He cited platinum palladium printing, a technique dating back to the 1870s, as being particularly popular. A single print can take weeks or even months to finish, making them expensive and far beyond the means of your everyday traveler. However, Brookover says that many people visit Jackson specifically for the art.

“September is [Jackson’s] busiest month because of the art,” said Jones of the Legacy Gallery. “It’s what drives people to come in September, to the Fall Arts Festival.”

Celebrating its 27th year, the Fall Arts Festival hosts more than 50 events including gallery shows, artist demonstrations, live music, cowboy poetry and cuisine.

Presented by the Jackson Hole Chamber of Commerce, the festival draws thousands of visitors.

Among the more popular activities are the Palates & Palettes Gallery Walk and the QuickDraw Art Sale and Auction, in which spectators watch artists paint and sculpt for an hour; the results are then immediately auctioned off.

The Jackson Hole Art Auction is also a huge mainstay of the festival. It attracts sophisticated artists and vendors alike, with pieces selling for hundreds of thousands of dollars.

Sound a little steep for your budget? You’re not alone.

Thankfully, though, entrance into the galleries in Jackson Hole is free, so everyone is able to enter and have a look around.

And, with so much development happening in its art scene, a trip to Jackson is highly recommended for any art enthusiast.

“It’s really changing for the better,” said Brookover.


If You Go

The Brookover Gallery
125 N. Cache
Jackson Hole, Wyo. 83001
307-732-3988
http://www.brookovergallery.com
.(JavaScript must be enabled to view this email address)

RARE Gallery of Fine Art
60 E. Broadway
P.O. Box 1427
Jackson Hole, Wyo. 83001
307-733-8726
http://www.raregalleryjacksonhole.com
.(JavaScript must be enabled to view this email address) / .(JavaScript must be enabled to view this email address)

The Legacy Gallery
75 N. Cache
P.O. Box 4977
Jackson Hole, Wyo. 83001
307-733-2353
http://www.legacygallery.com
.(JavaScript must be enabled to view this email address)
Gallery Hours:
Monday-Saturday: 10 a.m.-5:30 p.m.
Sundays: 10 a.m.-5 p.m.

Parking is available in public lots and on the streets.

For more information about art galleries in Jackson Hole, go to http://www.jacksonholegalleries.com/.

Abundant wildlife easily visible in Grand Teton

By IKU KAWACHI
School of Communication
University of Miami

JACKSON HOLE, Wyo. – A herd of golden-brown bison grazes lazily in the sagebrush flats. Two young moose, one still a calf, drink from a wetland, careful to maintain a safe distance from curious onlookers.

And somewhere, deeper in the thick cover of the forests, grizzly and black bears patrol the park for prey, preparing for the ensuing winter.

Those who make the drive to Grand Teton National Park, a 310,000-acre national park located in northwestern Wyoming, can enjoy a plethora of wild animals ranging from least chipmunks to moose and everything in between.

Though typically shy and wary of humans, young moose (Alces alces) can often be spotted drinking from wetlands deeper in the park's forests (Photos by Iku Kawachi).

The park is commonly associated with being roughly adjacent to the much larger Yellowstone National Park to the north, and deservedly so. Together with the John D. Rockefeller, Jr. Memorial Parkway and surrounding forests, the parks encompass roughly 18 million acres of land and make up one of the largest mid-latitude temperate ecosystems in the world.

Make no mistake, though: far from merely being Yellowstone’s “little brother,” Grand Teton alone is home to 16 large and 45 small mammal species, from household names such as grizzly bears and wolves to less commonly known fauna such as Canada lynx and pronghorns, which only resemble antelope in appearance.

“Pronghorns are actually completely different from antelope,” said Julena Campbell, interpretive specialist. “Their closest living relatives are—believe it or not—giraffes.”

Of course, not all of these large mammals are easily visible. There are certain species that it is especially rare to encounter merely by driving through marked roads or hiking along the park’s more popular trails.

American bison (Bison bison), also known informally as "buffalo," have been known to graze in large herds in the Elk Ranch and Antelope Flats. This herd was spotted along U.S. 191/89/26.

Some species, like the lynx, coyote and bobcat, are primarily nocturnal; their secretive behavior does not easily lend itself to encounters with humans. Others, like the black bear and pine marten, spend most of their time deep within the cover of forests, making it difficult to spot them from a distance.

Given that, the easiest mammals for Grand Teton visitors to see are those whose activity patterns are relatively predictable. Two such species are moose and elk, both larger members of the deer family who take shelter in the shaded forests during the peak of daylight but can be seen grazing in the Antelope and Elk Ranch Flats in the mornings and evenings.

Driving south on U.S. Routes 191/89/26 one recent October morning, for example, lent itself to a spectacular sight that stretched across both sides of the road: A large herd of bison, numbering 50 or 60, had settled 100 yards or so in the distance.

Golden- and reddish-brown in hue, many of them lay comfortably in the sagebrush. Others meandered around, occasionally nudging each other and paying no attention to the cars rushing by or the passersby who had stopped to get a closer glimpse. On the other side of the highway was a herd of domestic horses, some solid white, chestnut or bay, others with intricate white-and-chestnut patterns.

The park’s dominant predators, including the famous grizzly and black bears, tend to be much more elusive. Bears are omnivores, and feed on everything from moose that dwarf them in size to wild berries as they fatten up for the frigid winter.

“They’re attracted to hawthorn [berries] and choke berries,” Campbell said. “They have to fatten up as preparation for hibernation.”

At right, moose (Alces alces), seen grazing at Jenny Lake, have distinctive flaps of skin called "bells" that hang from their necks. Below, domestic horses (Equus ferus caballus), seen in a variety of hues, are also common. Last, a bald eagle (Haliaeetus leucocephalus) found in Grand Teton- Yellowstone areas, sits on a log (Staff photo).

However, though bears are known to stray close to bodies of water at points like the Moran Junction and Oxbow Bend Turnout to feed on unsuspecting prey and can turn up “anywhere, anytime,” most of their activity takes place in the forests, keeping them out of sight of many visitors to the park—especially those who opt not to stray far off the beaten path.

In fact, for all of the precautions stressed by park staff, such as packaging food properly, not leaving backpacks unattended, toting bear spray and talking and making noise while hiking so as not to surprise them, it is perfectly likely that one spends several days visiting Grand Teton and comes across nary a trace of a bear.

Unexpected encounters can be frightening and downright dangerous, of course, but it is perhaps more fitting to think of finding tracks or paw prints or spotting a bear from a distance as a rare treat than a given product of exploring the innards of the wilderness.

That is not to suggest for a moment, however, that the staff’s warnings can be ignored, or that one can go bounding about the trails with no regard for basic safety. Bears, particularly grizzly bears, are fierce apex predators and are known to react aggressively if taken by surprise.

But it is not just the hunters that must be respected and paid due caution: despite their blasé countenance, for example, bison can reach speeds of up to 30 mph and often attack without particular reason or warning.

Park rangers instruct visitors to maintain a distance of at least 100 yards from all large mammals and to never come between an adult mammal and its offspring.

At the end of the day, the rarity of getting the opportunity to observe a bear from a safe distance may speak to the very appeal of visiting a park to see its wildlife: it is often hours and days of craning necks out car windows, patiently waiting and letting one’s anticipation build.

More often than not, even turnouts, outlooks and junctions known as “hot spots” can seem still and lifeless. But the exhilaration and amazement when one witnesses a mother elk and its fawn in the distant shrubbery, for example, make it well worth the wait.


If You Go

The following is information regarding only popular wildlife viewing spots mentioned in the article. All directions are from the Craig Thomas Discovery and Visitor Center in Moose at the southern end of the park.

Moran Junction
Can see: Moose, beavers, bears
Directions: Take Moose-Wilson Road and turn right on Teton Park Road. Turn left on U.S. Routes 191/89/26 and head north for 18 miles until Moran Junction.

Oxbow Bend Turnout
Can see: Moose, elk, bears
Directions: Take Moose-Wilson Road and turn right on Teton Park Road. Turn left on U.S. Routes 191/89/26 and head north for 18 miles until Moran Junction. Keep left, staying on the same route for 3 miles. The turnout is on the south side.

Antelope Flats
Can see: Bison, pronghorn
Directions: Take Moose-Wilson Road to Teton Park Road and turn right. Turn left on U.S. Routes 191/89/26. The Antelope Flats are on the right (east side) north of Antelope Flats Road. Alternatively, turn right and head east on Antelope Flats Road after one mile (this road is seasonally closed).

Elk Ranch Flats
Can see: Elk, bison, pronghorn, horses
Directions: Take Moose-Wilson Road to Teton Park Road and turn right. Turn left on U.S. Routes 191/89/26 and head north for 15 miles until the Elk Ranch Flats Turnout.

Colors along U.S. 89 rival New England palette

For someone from Miami, where fall rarely happens except on television or on a movie screen, it was a truly golden opportunity.

Driving along U.S. 89 from Logan, Utah, to Jackson Hole, Wyo., and nearby Grand Teton National Park, we experienced fall in the mountains.... in full color. It was the Rockies in their most electric form.

While New England gets all the media hype about its leaf peepers and the amazing colors of fall in Massachusetts, Vermont, New Hampshire, and Maine, the north-south corridor running from Salt Lake City north into Grand Teton and Yellowstone in northwestern Wyoming seemingly is overlooked.

But for me, at least, the chance to drive the five hours along U.S. 89 was ample evidence that the mountain fall season is equal to, if not better, those fall experiences of the northeast.

Our group of writers saw some of the richest colors any designer or artist could imagine.

We saw Mother Nature's best colors on canyon walls, mountainsides, river banks, lakefronts, and even on the countless ranches that covered the three states that Route 89 covers--- Utah, Idaho, and Wyoming--- on this trip.

It is difficult to imagine adjectives and nouns that do justice for the many colors we viewed.

There were dozens of variations of reds, greens, golds, yellows, browns, blues, and oranges. 

The northbound drive from Utah into Idaho and Wyoming passes through an impressive list of undeveloped areas --- they are national forests--- before entering the two famous national parks. We had the benefit of a clear afternoon for driving north and the bright afternoon sun made the scenery seem even more intense.

Once we left the Salt Lake City area and made it into the smaller university community of Logan, the real fall color experience began. We definitely were not among the palms of Miami any more.

As it was mid October for our trip, and colors were peaking as we entered the Cache National Forest. Logan Canyon was stunning on both sides of the winding road as it followed the Logan River.

With people horseback riding, kayaking, hiking, and climbing, it was an active place. The section of about 40 miles from Logan to Garden City had magnificent photo opportunities on each turn.  Next, Bear Lake was awash in its own palette of oranges and reds, especially.

As we went further north, the route next passes through Caribou National Forest. Then more bright colors greeted us in Bridger National Forest.

Targhee National Forest, which came next, continued the visual treats before we entered Teton National Forest to the south of the national park around Jackson Hole. Much of the route follows rivers through canyons.

After the Logan River, we followed the Snake River into Jackson Hole, our home for three nights and days.

North of Jackson Hole, U.S. 89 and its geography ratchet up the experience even further. The road runs to the east of the long and tall range of the Grand Teton mountains (upwards of 13,770 feet) and the surrounding river and lake landscapes as it enters Grand Teton National Park.

While there are numerous turnouts allowing visitors to stop and admire the view, the area was nothing less than one calendar image after another.

At the north end of the park, the road becomes the John D. Rockefeller Memorial Parkway, another national park unit, and connects Grand Teton National Park to Yellowstone National Park for even more fall color.

It was a drive producing one visual surprise after another. Lucky for us, we followed the same route south at the end of our reporting trip and got to see the same scenery, this time in sharp, bright morning light.

For us, it was a trip well worth the time and effort.

Bruce Garrison
University of Miami

Trail Ridge Road offers scenic mountain views

By SPENCER DANDES
School of Communication
University of Miami

ESTES PARK, Colo. --- America’s highest continuous motorway boasts unparalleled views of the many faces of Rocky Mountain National Park.

Trail Ridge Road, a highway that stretches 48 miles through the heart of the park, has become an extremely popular drive for the majority of people who visit the Rocky Mountains.

“Of our three million visitors to the park each year, probably two-thirds of them go to Trail Ridge,” said Susan Langdon, an interpretive ranger at the park.

At right and below, the Trail Ridge Road takes travelers through Rocky Mountain National Park, providing scenic vistas from high altitudes. About eight miles of the road are at 11,000 feet and higher (Photos by Zongchao Li).

Langdon said most people enjoy the outing as a day-trip. Many visitors claim the sights at Trail Ridge’s main stops are the best in the park.

“I’ve driven it four times,” said Charlotte Claudio, a frequent visitor from Castle Rock, Colo. “I love the beauty, the nature, the vastness.”

One unique aspect of the road is that it offers a look into several different ecosystems. Open woodlands, dense forests and treeless sections of the alpine tundra can are all accessible along Trail Ridge Road.

“I like to go in the fall when the leaves and colors are changing,” Claudio said. “Going up so far is amazing- the views change and you get to more plains as you get higher.”

More than eight miles of the road sit at an elevation of 11,000 feet or higher.

At its highest point, Trail Ridge Road climbs to 12,183 feet. You cannot drive an automobile much higher than this in the United States.

The first byway in the park was called Fall River Road, which opened in 1920, just five years after the park itself was established.

However, that highway proved too unsafe for frequent two-way travel with its narrow lanes and sharp curves.

Trail Ridge Road was constructed as a safer alternative to Fall River, with broader curves and wider roads; it opened in 1932. The National Park Service worked to ensure scenic views of wildlife and nature along the entire trail.

“I’ve gone several times. There are really nice places to see because you’re looking down on a lot of stuff,” said Roger Gunlikson, a park volunteer who has contributed more than 4,000 hours of service.

Trail Ridge is viewed mainly as a summer attraction --- it is impossible for the park staff to maintain safe driving conditions along the road year-round. Once heavy snowfall occurs in the fall, much of it closes down until plows can make their way through and rangers determine the road to be drivable.

Trail Ridge Road is marked with a distinctive sign as it crosses the Colorado mountains, often into high-altitude snow-covered areas.

According to the National Park Service, the road has seen snowdrifts of up to 35 feet.

Plowing begins in mid-April, and the process takes about 40 days. Langdon said the road typically opens around Memorial Day weekend.

“Then it stays open until mid-October, when it becomes less cost-effective to plow the snow,” she said.

Langdon said even when the road is unsafe to drive, some parts of it are still accessible to hikers.

Along the byway, there are several areas that are considered “must-sees.” The visitor centers throughout the park have a booklet for sale that offers a self-guided tour of Trail Ridge Road; it costs just $2.

In the booklet are suggestions for the 12 most popular tour stops. Visitors who begin their drive at the eastern end of Trail Ridge will first encounter Deer Ridge Junction. This stop crosses the Montane ecosystem, which contains both open meadows and towering pines.

On the western end of the road is the Holzwarth Historic Site, a dude ranch built in the 1920s.

Another significant stop along Trail Ridge Road is the Milner Pass, where the storied trail crosses the Continental Divide. Just off the road, Langdon said visitors often walk the hiking trail around Lake Irene.

Trail Ridge has become one of the Rocky Mountains’ most popular attractions because of its unrivaled views of the diverse ecosystems and wildlife throughout the park.

Visitors likely will not experience a drive quite like it anywhere else.

“Once you’re up there, you really do feel on top of the world,” Langdon said.

Snow and ice may be a concern for drivers at times during the year. The mountain climate forces park officials to close the road during the winter months, but also in parts of the fall and spring seasons. But once the road is open across the mountains, the viewpoints offer stunning views.

Pine beetle problem part of park’s natural process

By BOLTON LANCASTER
School of Communication
University of Miami

ESTES PARK, Colo. --- In a national park that has the reputation of having some of the most magnificent forests in the country, trees have been dying at an alarming rate the last 10 years. And the problem is no larger than a grain of rice.

"There are entire mountains where the side is just brown," said Don Bowen, part-time resident of Estes Park throughout his life and a full-time resident since 1997.

The culprit? Swarms of mountain pine beetles that have moved into the park primarily after droughts in 2002 and 2003.

Areas where the trees have mostly been killed by mountain pine beetles can be found throughout the park (Photo by Lori Koutrokois).

Mountain pine beetles have been around for thousands of years and are nothing new to forests. They can be found as far north as British Columbia and as far south as Mexico.

"This is not just a local Colorado phenomenon," explained Dr. Monique Rocca, a professor and ecologist at Colorado State University in nearby Fort Collins who studies forest fires as well as the effects that the mountain pine beetles have on the park. "BC has been hit really hard, and other areas of the Rockies have also been affected."

The mountain pine beetles were first thought to have moved into Rocky Mountain National Park as a result of global warming since the temperatures in the winter were not as low as they once were, making it easier for the beetles to survive. However, the theory has shifted and now it is believed that extended periods with limited amounts of water weaken trees' defenses against the beetles and make them more susceptible to an attack.

Even though the mountain pine beetle is relatively new to the park and is causing many of the trees to die, they are looked at as a "natural" occurrence and are not considered to be an invasive species.

Mark Magnuson, chief ranger at Rocky Mountain National Park, holds a graphic that shows the spread of mountain pine beetles in Grand County from 1999 to 2007 (Photo by Bolton Lancaster).

The beetles use trees, primarily lodgepole, ponderosa and lumber pines, as a place to plant their eggs. In late summer, female beetles seek out new trees where they can burrow underneath the bark, attract a mate by releasing pheromones, and eventually lay eggs inside the tree, using it as a place to stay warm during the cold months of the year.

However, the trees are not defenseless. They attempt to "pitch out" the beetles by releasing sap in areas where the beetles have started to burrow through the bark. The sap forces the beetles out of the tree and sometimes completely traps them. When beetles make the move to new trees, they attempt to shut down this defense system.

"Once the mountain pine beetle gets into the tree, it releases a blue fungus that wraps itself around the flow system," said Sandy Osterman, a volunteer at Rocky Mountain National Park.

The blue stain fungus is comparable to cholesterol in humans: it prevents the tree from absorbing and circulating the nutrients that they need to survive. This ultimately kills the tree and allows for easy invasion by the beetles.

The effects that the mountain pine beetle has had on the park are debatable. It was widely believed that the increased number of dead trees made the park much more susceptible to fires, but this belief is fading as recent studies show that there is only a one-year period where the dead trees are in a "red" phase (the color of the pine needles on the tree) where they add to the fuel load of the park. After that, the dead trees enter into a "gray" phase, where the chances of catching on fire are slimmer.

Trees at Bear Lake go through a “red” phase (middle ground) followed by a “gray” phase (foreground) after being infested and killed by mountain pine beetles. While in the one-year “red phase,” it is believed that trees are more susceptible to forest fires (Photo by Bolton Lancaster).

"Fires occur with or without beetles," Rocca said.

Experts believe that the risk of forest fires due to the mountain pine beetle may be over-exaggerated in the past and now look to bring light to the myth.

However, the trees dying as a result of beetle infestations have potential to affect all of the wildlife in the park.

"If the ponderosa pine were to be wiped out, it would have a cascading effect on the ecosystem," said Cynthia Langguth, a Rocky Mountain National Park ranger.

The park is attempting to protect the trees by using both carbonyl sprays and pheromone packets. The carbonyl spray repels the beetles and are used on "high-risk" trees, which are located in frequently visited areas of the park and could harm visitors if they fell over after being killed by beetles. These trees are sprayed for safety reasons as well as to preserve the beauty of the park.

The pheromone packets, which give off pheromones that trick the beetles into believing that a healthy tree is already inhabited, are used in the backcountry primarily on lumber pines in hopes of protecting specific ecosystems. While the park works hard to minimize the effect of the mountain pine beetle, most of the trees are not treated at all simply because it is such a large-scale problem.

"It's nothing you can really stop," said Mark Magnuson, chief ranger at the park. "It's just a force of nature that you really can't do much about."

A "high-risk" tree in Moraine Park Campground is sprayed with blue paint at the base to indicate that it is to be sprayed with carbonyl to repel the mountain pine beetles. Such trees are located in frequently visited areas where people could be harmed if the tree fell over after being killed by the beetles (Photo by Bolton Lancaster).

The mountain pine beetles have affected more than just the trees in the park, as the residents of surrounding cities are encouraged to take down infected trees on their property before eggs hatch in the summer. The drastic change in the park has affected local markets as well as the natural beauty of the area.

"The national park is our biggest draw," Bowen said. "People come to Estes Park to go through the park."

In a town that relies heavily on tourism, especially in the summer, decreased traffic to and from campsites can lead to heavy losses for small shops in the area.

Rangers, nearby residents and tourists all cannot help but wonder what is to become of the park.

"The prognosis, so to speak, is that the forest will come back and regenerate itself, becoming more diverse," Magnuson said, although he admitted that it would be a timely process. "Nature has a way of recovering."

Rocca is also confident that the forests will be able to recover on their own and that suriving trees are continuing to grow.

"There is no need to plant trees," she said. "At least 80 percent of the forest has enough new seedlings to grow back."

The mountain pine beetles primarily look to infest larger trees, such as lodgepole pines. Smaller trees will eventually be more common throughout the park not only because they are targeted less by the beetles, but also because they cannot grow when lodgepole pines block their access to sunlight and use all of the nutrients in the soil.

The problem posed by the mountain pine beetle in Rocky Mountain National Park can be looked at as a natural phenomenon that human intervention cannot solve but will work itself out over time. Now, the only thing to do is to wait.

"I think it's a challenge for communities who live here to see the forest die around you," Magnuson said. "Over time, people begin to accept that it's part of a natural cycle."



If You Go

Rocky Mountain National Park is open 24 hours a day year round.

Entrance fees are $20 for cars and $10 for cyclists, both of which are valid for seven consecutive days.

Directions:

• From Denver and the east--- Take U.S. 34 from Loveland or U.S. 36 from Boulder to get to Estes Park.

• From Denver International Airport--- Take Pena Boulevard to Interstate 70 west. Continue on Interstate 70 west until it intersects with Interstate 25 north. Take Interstate 25 north to exit number 243, which is Colorado Highway 66. Go west on Highway 66 for about 16 miles to the town of Lyons. At the first stoplight, continue going west and Highway 66 will merge onto U.S. Highway 36. Continue another 22 miles to get to Estes Park.

• From the west and the south--- Take Interstate 70 to U.S. 40 between Georgetown and Idaho Springs. Then, take U.S. 74 in Granby through Grand Lake.

Note: The park is drastically different in the winter than it is in the summer as there is a lot more snow throughout the winter months. Winter activities include snowshoeing and sledding while summer activities usually focus on hiking. Trail Ridge Road, which connects the east and west sides of the park, is closed during the winter.

Parks respond to Deepwater Horizon oil spill

Demand at Yosemite leads to scalping online

Climate change brings impact to national parks

Parks offer range of extreme sports activities

Development threatens future of many parks

Transportation helps visitors enjoy Yellowstone

Marijuana growers bring risk to national parks

Yellowstone volcanic system remains active

Scenic vistas disappearing due to air pollution

Parks must balance visitation, preservation

Bringing dogs into national parks can be dangerous

Park bear attacks on decline, but risks remain

Stanley Hotel ghost tour popular with park visitors

By REBECCA LATTANZIO
School of Communication
University of Miami

ESTES PARK, Colo. —Nestled 7,500 feet high in the Rocky Mountains, below cascading peaks and above the charming town of Estes Park sits the historic, elegant and famously haunted Stanley Hotel.

Its red-peaked spires are a beacon for curious guests. Its lobby is dimly lit and complete with luxurious leather couches and a giant and overbearing wooden front desk. As with most hours of the day, the lobby and wrap-around front porch are abuzz with inquiring visitors.

Click on the video at the right to view a slideshow about the Stanley Hotel ghost tour prepared by writer Rebecca Lattanzio and photographed by Rebecca Lattanzio and Spiridoul Koutrokois.

Tidbits of questions about Stanley Kubrick’s 1980 film “The Shining” and guestroom 217 can be heard from all corners of the hotel. It is a perfect preservation of early 1900s American glamour. You are half expecting men in top hats and women in petticoats to come traipsing down the staircase for dinner.

Staff members of the hotel call it “happily haunted,” a place where ghosts of summers past reportedly stick around to care for, relax in and play at the hotel that was once a resort and playground to some of the wealthiest and most famous socialites in the country.

The front entrance of the main building of the Stanley Hotel (Photo by Zongchao Li).

The Stanley is certainly known for its several ghostly guests, five of them to be exact, but staff members such as Kevin Lofy, the historic tour supervisor, are more proud of the hotel’s founder than anything else. F.O. Stanley began building the hotel in 1907.

When completed, the resort grounds contained an ice pond, golf course, 11 buildings, and complete servants’ quarters. Stanley, best known for his steam powered automobile, the “Stanley Steamer,” dedicated much of his life to the lovely town of Estes Park and its crown architectural jewel, The Stanley.

“When people walk through the lobby [here], they have stepped back in time,” Lofy stated.

At right, Stanley Kubrick’s 1980 adaptation of the Shining was not shot in the Stanley hotel despite Stephen King’s requests. The exterior shots of the hotel were shot at the Timberline Lodge in Mount Hood Oregon instead. Below, the famous room 217 is booked practically every night of the year. Famous guests include John Wayne, John McCain, and Jim Carey.(Photos by Rebecca Lattanzio and Koutrokoisri Koutrokois).

More than 100 years of circulating guests has left little changed. The lobby is still grandiose with a banistered wooden staircase, there is a music room built by request for Flora Stanley, F.O.’s wife, and there is still no air conditioning in the building.

“What I like about the hotel is that the spectacle of it, the reason people came here 101 years ago, still hasn’t changed,” said Lofy, “We throw parties just like the Stanleys did, the history’s not dead here. Now it’s like our story.”

Lofy and his team of ghost tour guides give three to 14 tours per day in the off-season and as many as 24 per day during the summer season. Each tour hosts about 20 people, so there is no question that the hotel has developed a reputation over the years.

Most of this buzz has stemmed from one of The Stanley’s most famous guests, author Stephen King. King stayed in the hotel’s presidential suite, room 217, in 1973 the night before the hotel was to be closed for the season and the experience served as inspiration for his novel The Shining.

The book was later made into the internationally known movie, although to King’s disappointment, it was not shot at the Estes Park location.

The foundation of the novel and its eerie characters, though, were conceptualized in The Stanley, behind the door of room 217. A door that one tour guide calls “the most photographed hotel room door in the world.”

“Just today I had a group of people here from Germany. They had asked to come up to see the hotel. It has a sort of cult following,” said Lofy.

King didn’t report any supernatural experiences while staying at the hotel, but its guests’ countless accounts of ghost sightings and mysterious experiences has made it a “Ghost Hunters” television show hot spot and has given the hotel the rare classification as a “true haunt.”

“This is like Disneyland for supernatural investigators,” said Lofy.

Some of the resident ghosts that supposedly roam the halls are Mr. and Mrs. Stanley, Lucy who haunts the Concert Hall, Lord Dunraven, a notorious historical gambler and womanizer, Mrs. Wilson, the caretaker of room 217, as well as a slew of children on the uber-haunted fourth floor.

Whether you believe in supernatural activity or not, the dark hallways and old white windows seem to invite ghost stories. You catch guests and visitors on the tours, constantly looking over their shoulders, almost waiting to be brushed by a child still playing 101 years later.

Recent Stanley guests Amber Pangallo, Shelby Vogelpohl and Stacy Packer have no doubt that the hotel has guests that have yet to check out. The two teenage girls, Pangallo and Vogelpohl, as well as mom Packer, stayed in room 208 before moving to the fourth floor and they have no shortage of spooky stories.

“Right off the bat, I literally walked in [to the room] and the toilet flushed,” said Vogelpohl. “The bath towels were moving back and forth, so I ran out.”

At right, the Stanley Hotel offers ghost tours all day. The tour guides see thousands of visitors a week from all over the world looking to be a part of the Stanley’s history. Below, the hotel is only four floors and still has no air conditioning. In 2009 the Stanley hotel celebrated its 100th anniversary.

After bringing up the hotel’s resident psychic to investigate, the girls came to their own conclusion that a male ghost was following them on their stay.

“We figured it’s probably because I brought two young pretty girls up here,” said Packer, an avid believer in the supernatural.

The experience is different for each guest. Some say they hear children running through the halls above them during the night. In fact the hotel telephone operator claims to get three or four calls a month from guests complaining about the racket on the fourth floor, a racket that doesn’t actually exist.

Some say they hear a piano playing while no one is in sight. Some say they have seen Mr. Stanley lounging at the bar. And others report no ghost stories whatsoever.

Either way the hotel is a must-see historical site and the true testament of the do-gooder that its creator F.O. Stanley was in his day.

“Let’s just say this isn’t the Marriott,” said Packer with a grin.

If You Go

The Stanley Hotel
333 Wonderview Ave.
Estes Park, CO 80517

888-827-1973 Toll Free
970-285-3518 Local

Directions from Denver International Airport to The Stanley Hotel (taken from stanleyhotel.com)
 North on Pena Boulevard to terminal departures and airport exit
 Take Pena Boulevard
 Take E-470 N, exit number 6B
 Merge onto E-470 North
 Merge onto I-25 N / U.S. 87 N, towards Fort Collins
 Take the Colorado Route 66, exit 243 to Lyons.
 Turn left onto Colorado Route 66 to Estes Park, Continue to follow CR 66
 CR 66 becomes U.S. 36 West.
 Follow U.S. 36 to Estes Park.
 Stay straight at St. Vrain / Colorado Route 7 stop light and Elkhorn / Colorado Route 34 onto
    East Wonderview Avenue
Take second right into Stanley Hotel.

There are two restaurants within the hotel as well as a spa.

 

Stanley Hotel Ghost Tours

•    Times available thoroughout the day
•    Maximum of 25 people per tour
•    No dogs or children under the age of 5
•    $15 per person/ $10 f0r children ages 5-10
•    Advance reservations required. Please call 970-577-4110

High gas prices bring concern to parks officials

Youth programs educate about history, nature

Hiking offers pristine views, glimpses of wildlife

By ALEXANDRA ROLAND
School of Communication
University of Miami

ESTES PARK, Colo. --- At high noon, the blue sky breathes in cool steady wind. The cirrus clouds offer a thin layer of contrast to the pure sky, interrupted by welcomed subdued sunrays. Lower your gaze, and you are enveloped by blankets of snow.

White, untouched, soft snow --- the kind you just want to step in to make sure it’s real --- covers the ground. Hopeful hikers at Rocky Mountain National Park did just that early April at one of the park’s most popular spots: Bear Lake. At an elevation of 9,475 feet, the high altitude produces crisp air, amazing views and some chilly weather.

Click on the video at right to view a slideshow photographed and narrated by writer Alexandra Roland about hiking in Rocky Mountain National Park.

“You are going to see beautiful scenery,” Ranger Dave Chamber said.

He and two fellow rangers stand at the beginning of the trail to answer any questions the passersby might have about hiking conditions. Even in late winter and early spring, conditions can be challenging and sometimes dangerous. According to the rangers, Bear Lake is one of the most popular trailheads, meaning that it leads to other hiking paths.

Past the Bear Lake Ranger Station and through some shady pine trees, hikers traipse through the slippery snow carefully. It comes up to your calf at some points and, if you are not aleet, you find yourself a lot deeper than you thought judging from the look of the surface.

Two visitors prepare to go on a hike at Bear Lake  One adjusts her snow shoe while the other waits (Photo by Spiridoul Koutrokois). Below, Ranger Dave Chamber stands with two other rangers to answer questions from hikers at the entrance to the trailhead (Photo by Alexandra Roland).

After much trepidation though, a prize is waiting just around the bend. A clear white open expanse sits surrounded by tree-covered mountains. Just under the snow is a frozen-over a lake.

Daring visitors meander to the center, the snow turning to slush in the wake of each footprint. Some take a few snapshots, make a snow angel, or wander around the edge of the lake for a closer look at the icicles hanging from a nearby slab of mountain.

Rocky Mountain National Park is home to approximately 352 marked hiking trails. The winding paths vary from the narrow and desolate to the snowy frequented and footprint covered.

Hikers brave the elevation spike for a chance to observe the pristine scenic views, the raw sounds of nature and the feeling of welcomed alienation from the rest of the world, even for just a few moments.

The trails attract hikers of all expertise, ages and interests.

Some of the more unprepared visitors eager for a quick look at the now-frozen and snowed-over Bear Lake, slip and slide over the icy snow in flip flops and shorts quick enough to take a fast picture and then rush back to the heated car.

Others donned in snow jackets, gloves, and sunglasses seem a little bit more prepared. These hikers are ready to use their hiking sticks and snowshoes to brave the snowy conditions and progress farther along the trail. Many are no strangers to hiking conditions at high altitudes and have ample supplies. They also take proper precautions.

At left, top, hikers who ventured near the middle of the lake left slushy wet snow in the path of their footprints. If you venture on to iced over surfaces, rangers recommend that you test its steadiness before each step (Photo by Alex Roland). Left below, the writer makes a snow angel atop the frozen and snowed over Bear Lake (Photo by Rebecca Lattanzio).

Bridgett Monahan and friend Jenaette Lostracco, visiting from nearby Boulder traveled for just a few hours to the national park. They have hiked all over the world, but Rocky Mountain National Park offers some of their most favorite climbs.

“It’s gorgeous,” Monahan said. “One of the best.”

On this particular sunny day, they were looking for a loop hike and a possible water feature sighting. They passed an information board and got situated.

“All the interp info is great, very helpful.” Lostracco said.

A view of the entrance to the Bear Lake trailhead from the parking lot (Photo by Alex Roland).

With that, they were headed further along the path in the deep footprints of the visitors before them.

“It’s a good chance to get out in snowshoes before it’s too late,” Jeremy Sanders from Colorado Springs said. He was off to the side, bending down in the snow, helping his friend adjust her snowshoes. Both were eager to see some wildlife.

According to Chamber, wildlife usually stays away from hikers on the trails because the animals are frightened by the noise. However, careful and quiet hikers may be fortunate enough to catch a glimpse of a chipmunk or a bull elk.

If you do happen on a wild animal, rangers advise that you be quite careful. It is, after all, their backyard. If an elk is foraging on the vegetation ahead of you, stop a good distance away and watch.

Seasonal Back Country Manager Dale Kosewick suggests that you and your party take a break and wait for the animal to move on, so as not to spook or disturb it.

The Ranger Station at the entrance to Bear Lake trailhead. The parking lot is about 200 feet from the actual lake (Photo by Alex Roland).

Other precautions are necessary as well. Because of the increase in elevation, it is important to bring ample clothing as the temperature can vary greatly from lower altitudes.

But just because it is colder, doesn't mean that there is no sun. Be sure to bring sunscreen as well. Natural occurrences such as avalanches and fallen trees are also possible.

“The old motto of ‘be prepared’ is your best bet,” Kosewick said.

 

If You Go

Hiking Do’s and Don'ts

• Dress appropriately. Layers are suggested. Bring extra clothing.
• Pack high-energy snacks, water, and sunscreen.
• Check weather conditions before hand and bring snowshoes if necessary.
• Use a map or compass if necessary.
• Do not rely on the use of cell phones. Cell phone service is unreliable in the mountains.
• Be wary of deep snow and iced over ponds, lakes and rivers. If you choose to venture out onto the ice, test out your steps before with a hiking pole.
• Travel in groups and stay with your party.
• Be careful of falling and fallen trees.
• If you are hiking in an area where an avalanche could occur, take a beacon and shovel. If caught in an avalanche, make swimming motions with your arms and try your best to remain on top of the snow.

Lightning, smoking bring wildfires into parks

Wildlife plentiful during day’s visit to park

By DAVID SARGENT
School of Communication
University of Miami

ESTES PARK, Colo. -- The natural residents of Rocky Mountain National Park are as free as its visitors.

They roam, fly, swim, graze, fight and perch with a liveliness as untamed as the land they call home.

Because it is illegal to hunt, feed or harass the animals inside of the boundaries of Rocky Mountain National Park, many of them have found no reason to be shy to their human visitors. To prove my point, let me describe the variety of native species I was fortunate enough to spot in a single day’s visit in early spring.

At left, a male bighorn sheep grazes off of Highway 34, less than a mile from the entrance to Rocky Mountain National Park. Below, elk roam freely in Estes Park and Rocky Mountain National Park. This picture was taken from our hotel, just steps from our doors. (Photos by David Sargent).

Our morning started with a bird-watching trek in the valley at Moraine Park. Driving into the park, however, we encountered a herd of elk walking the streets of downtown Estes Park. While hundreds of elk enjoy the ranges of Rocky Mountain National Park, they’ve also made themselves a fixture in the small town just outside of it. (Visitors often capture these scenes on their video camera and cell phones. To see an example, simply do a YouTube search and you’ll see what I mean.)

The Rocky Mountain elk are some of the largest mammals in North America, second really only to moose. Males grow to more than 700 pounds and shed their characteristic large antlers every year.Their recent expansion in population has caused ecological problems in Rocky Mountain National Park and in Estes Park. They’ve destroyed groves of aspen trees from not enough migration and some have contracted Chronic Wasting Disease, which causes symptoms similar to mad cow disease.

“It used to be that wolves would hunt the elk, keep them migrating and maintain a healthy population,” said Kyle Patterson, interpretive ranger and public information officer for Rocky Mountain National Park. “But since the wolves have been gone, we’ve had to deal with some issues with the elk.”

Passing the Beaver Meadows Visitor Center, we proceeded to Moraine Park via State Highway 36.

Our volunteer guide, Ron Harden, was a dentist from Loveland, Colo., and he led us on a hike for less than an hour, during which we saw two woodpeckers, a mallard duck pair, magpies and a red-tailed hawk flying up above the ridge line.

“The magpies are building their nests right now,” said Harden.

Magpies are illustriously smart and didn’t seem to notice us since they were so busy collecting sticks. The ducks weren’t too timid by our presence, either.

We also spotted greenback cutthroat trout in a steam in Moraine Park. This species was declared extinct by the Colorado Museum of Natural History in 1937 due to the introduction of competing trout species into their habitat. But, in 1957, a population was discovered in five streams of the Rocky Mountain National Park.

“The introduction of the brown trout diminished the [greenback’s] native population,” said Janis Newman, a 12-year volunteer in the park information office. “But we’ve been able to protect the greenback.”

Conservation efforts have since expanded populations to 19 streams as of 2006, and successfully upgraded the greenback’s status from endangered to threatened. Once the greenback cutthroat trout has self-sustaining populations in 22 streams, it will be taken entirely off of the endangered species list.

The greenback cutthroat trout was thought to be extinct from the 1930s until it was discovered to still dwell in five streams in Rocky Mountain National Park. Conservation efforts have nearly completely restored the population.

Leaving the Moraine Park area, we passed more elk, grabbed a meal at Big Horn Restaurant in Estes Park and decided to head back into the park via State Highway 34. Coincidentally, less than a mile before reaching the Fall River Visitor Center, we spotted a herd of bighorn sheep grazing on the upper bank of the road, about one hundred feet from the shoulder. We hopped out to get a closer look and they didn’t seem to mind our presence one bit.

“From May to July, the bighorn will come down from the higher elevations into the meadows like Horseshoe Park to get needed minerals,” Newman said.

Above right, a magpie carries a stick through Moraine Park that will be used to build a nest. Below right, a pair of mallard ducks wade in a stream in Moraine Park. Male (left) and female (right) mallards usually pair together for breeding season.

A bighorn ram’s horns can weigh up to 30 pounds and are most used in “ruts” with other rams to establish dominance and secure an ewe for mating.

The species that lives in Rocky Mountain National Park is relatively bigger than other bighorn sheep in America and is highly adapted to moving across steep and rocky terrain. Thankfully for us, the flock we spotted was more interested in eating grass than anything else.

We proceeded up Highway 34 into the park and headed for the snow cutoff at Trail Ridge Road. After paying a visit to Hidden Valley, we stopped at Many Parks Curve to take in the view and, in the rocks below the observation deck, there were three boisterous yellow-bellied marmots fighting over territory.

The yellow-bellied marmot is said to be the largest species of ground squirrel in the world. They’re closely related to ground hogs or wood chucks and they live in burrows underneath rocks as a defense against predators such as bears, coyotes, wolves, foxes and humans. One of their unofficial monikers is the “whistle pig” for the characteristic sound they make to warn others of nearby predators.

This yellow-bellied marmot perches on a rock at Many Parks Curve on Trail Ridge Road. Just minutes before, this marmot attacked another marmot, which aptly retreated

“The marmots are pretty common to see on all of the trails higher up,” Newman said. “They’re curious animals.”

As the day winded down, we decided to head back into Estes Park and, yet again, passed the Estes Park elk.

“They go wherever they want, whenever they want,” Newman said about the park’s animals. “I once spotted a moose, right on the trail I was on,” she said. “Thankfully, I’ve never seen a bear.”

If You Go Wildlife Spotting

• Magpie can be spotted in Moraine Park in springtime as they build their nests.
• Ducks can be spotted in the various riparian areas of the park.
• Greenback trout can be spotted in Bear Lake, past the, Moraine Park Visitor Center
• Bighorn sheep can be spotted on the upper bank of Highway 34 near the park borders, or in some of the larger meadows in early summer. They can also be observed off of Crater Lake Trail in August, during their breeding season.
• Elk can be spotted in lower meadows, such as Moraine Park, during the day. They can also be found on golf courses in Estes Park.
• Yellow-bellied marmots can be seen on most higher-elevation trails or on rocks cliffs during the daytime.
• When spotted, moose are found on the western side of the park in riparian areas.

Hostel offers affordable housing near Everglades

Enclosures help manage elk, protect vegetation

By REBECCA LATTANZIO
School of Communication
University of Miami

ESTES PARK, Colo. --- Vast meadows, snowy mountain tops that soar sky-high and hilltop views worthy of screensavers are all what tourists expect to see when they enter Rocky Mountain National Park.

What don’t they expect to see?

Large man-made fences with “keep gates closed” signs plastered on their sides. Due to the elk overpopulation in the area, however, these enclosures have become the answer to some of the park’s biggest animal problems.

Elk was one of the original species that populated the wonderland that is Rocky Mountain National Park, but after being hunted out in the 1870s, they had to be reintroduced to the area starting in 1913.

Residents of the surrounding Estes Park area are not surprised to find an elk like this one resting or grazing in their backyards (Photos by Rebecca Lattanzio).

Today the 1,700 elk that inhabit the park grounds are decedents of those 49 that were brought back to the Rockies from Yellowstone National Park to reproduce and call Colorado home once more.

Unfortunately, extinction of the elk from the area in the 1800s also led to hunting and consequential extinction of the wolf population. This means that today the elk at Rocky Mountain have no predator chasing them, so they stay put, lulling and feeding on the same areas on vegetation year round. It is the same vegetation that makes up the habitats of dozens of other species within the park.

Since the elk have no reason to move to higher ground for fear of a predator, they continue to overgraze the lower meadows and strip trees of natural and healthy fungus.

So why not reintroduce the wolf predator as well? It’s the solution that experts at Yellowstone came up with, but it just doesn’t sit well with Colorado natives for one big reason: wolves are active and aggressive animals that don’t stay put.

Moraine Park is one of the premier spots for tourists to view a heard of elk feeding on lower grasslands. This is the latest spot where the enclosures have been introduced.

Ranger Susan Langdon has been working with Rocky Mountain National Park since 1990, when she started as an intern and she has dealt with the search for a solution first hand.

“We are a much smaller national park than Yellowstone and we just did not get the support from the state to bring wolves in,” said Langdon. “A wolf could wander into someone’s backyard here just like the elk do.”

Moving the elk to higher ground isn’t an option either because, according to Langdon, about 11 percent of the population suffers from Chronic Wasting Disease. A sickness described as a mild form of Mad-Cow, that can cause death among elk and deer within months.

While hunting is absolutely prohibited on national park grounds, the park does participate in culling on a limited basis.

“Culling is not the same as hunting. We bring in expert marksmen and they take down primarily females to control the overpopulation of the elk,” Says Langdon. “It is done with one shot to be sure it’s as humane as possible.”

The park culls about 50 elk each year in January and February.

Park experts like Langdon spent about six years surveying public responses and effectiveness of different plans to determine how to preserve every type of wildlife in the park while still maintaining a healthy elk population. And it is the elk that provide one of the biggest attractions for first-time visitors.

Kyle Patterson, public information officer and management specialist for Rocky Mountain National Park, described the lengthy process in detail. From 2002-04, experts released public presentations on extensive elk research. In 2004 the public sat down to write up a draft of a plan. In 2006, the initial plan was released, including a list of alternative solutions. Public responses were accepted until April 2007.

The fences, when viewed up close, provide a sharp contrast to the beautiful backdrop. Fences like this one have spaces at the bottom so that deer can still enter the enclosed space.

Finally, after much debate and the loss of many Aspen, some of the most crucial trees upon which elk feed, in unnecessary excess, the park came up with the extensive Elk & Vegetation Management Plan and signed it into place on Feb. 15, 2008.

In short, the plan designed exclosures to be set up in designated areas of the park to preserve spots of wildlife by keeping elk and moose out.

“The exclosures are approximately 76 inches tall, enough to keep elk out while also allowing smaller animals to enter under the 16 inch gap at the bottom,” says Patterson, “Gates are built into these exclosures, allowing visitors to freely enter the exclosures. “

The plan was made to last 20 years and to protect the aspen and willow trees that elk have been overfeeding on as “dessert.”

“The elk winter range totals approximately 3,400 acres and we have protected approximately 144 acres of willow habitat and 48 acres of aspen,” said Patterson. Numbers that only represent about 5% of the grazing ground of these elks.

In the long run, the park hopes to keep an elk population to about 600 or 800 and help other species flourish in their old habitats. Animals like sparrows, butterflies, and especially beavers.

The fences weren’t noticed much when they were first erected in Horseshoe Park and Beaver Meadow, but their appearance in Moraine Park, one of the most popular camping and photo op stops for tourists, caused a little more reaction from visitors.

For Colorado natives, however, who are used to traffic stops and slowdowns caused by elk crossing, the fences are a very small price to pay for a growing problem.

“There is a great overpopulation of elk here, especially in Estes Park, and if the tourists actually knew the reason behind [the fences] they would be understanding,” said Dean Seick, a Colorado resident and big fan of Moraine Park.

The view from the Moraine Park visitors’ center shows the relatively small area that has been designated for the Vegetation and Management Plan. The fences are only slightly noticeable from this view.

When you stand at the top of the moraines and look over the natural valley that the mountains have created over hundreds of years, the fences seem minuscule, if at all noticeable. Seick is from Denver and his opinion seems to be in line with the majority of visitors that flock to the majestic mountains every year.

“I don’t think it takes away from the beauty at all!”  Seick said with enthusiasm.

The plan is not permanent, although Langdon said that the fencing could eventually evolve into a separate “moose plan.” They will be checked for success and effectiveness every five or six years.

“It’s not an ideal solution, but it’s what we have come up with,” said Langdon.

For now, tourists and locals who wish to continue seeing an array of diverse species of vegetation and animals alike will have to deal with a few “keep gates closed” signs here and there.


If You Go

Elk Sightings: Elk can be seen at all hours of the day. During the elk rut (mating time) do not go into meadows between 5 p.m. and 7 a.m. View the animals at a safe distance and turn car engines and lights off. If the animal notices your presence you are too close. Try Moraine Park the best sightings of both elks and the fences.

Visiting Moraine Park:

• Elevated 1,850 feet
• Campground spots available with reservations.
• Restrooms
• Shuttle Stop
• Water Spouts
• Dump Stations

Directions from Estes Park: Take Highway 36 to the Beaver Meadows entrance. Turn left at the Bear Lake Road. Travel about 1.5 miles to the Moraine Park Campground Road. Turn right and follow the signs to the end of the road.

When visiting parks, restaurants offer many choices

Robert is Here offers treats for Everglades visitors

Exotic mangroves, extraordinary encounters on bay

South Floridians can enjoy ‘staycation’ by the bay

Snowy playground Hidden Valley offers adventure

By DAVID SARGENT
School of Communication
University of Miami

ESTES PARK, Colo. --- Hidden Valley, a 1,200-acre ski area in Rocky Mountain National Park, has somewhat an emblematic past.

During the past century, it has transitioned from a proving ground for self-taught skiers to a hotspot for Estes Park tourism to its present status, as far as can be determined, one of the few federally sanctioned sledding locations in the country.

The warming hut at the parking lot at Hidden Valley in Rocky Mountain National Park offers relief from the cold as well as restrooms (Photos by David Sargent).

What hasn’t changed is the spirit of the place. The big playground of trails, ski runs and majestic pines is as inviting as ever to the soul that seeks adventure, expansion, fun and some really fresh air.

“It’s like an exodus,” said Brandt Garrison, a Fort Lauderdale native who, months ago, moved to Nederland for the simplicities of Colorado life. “If it’s not here sledding, it’s mountain biking and hiking. It’s all free.”

Hidden Valley is uniquely narrow, composed of steep ranges divided by a comparatively short distance. It’s microclimate traps snow better and allows for trees to grow larger, having relative shelter from the wind. Prior to the national park’s existence, the area was logged for its large trees and some of its timber was used to construct the famed Stanley Hotel in Estes Park.

At left top, the breezeway at the warming hut at Hidden Valley offers shelter from the snow and wind as well as a place to adjust gear and to meet friends. At left below, the Aspen ski run at Hidden Valley is a favorite of visitors.

When Congress acted to create Rocky Mountain National Park in 1915, as the lines were drawn, Hidden Valley fell right in the middle in of the park, just east of the Continental Divide.

For the next 15 years, it was only accessible by hiking at least five miles through varied terrain. As the area was only a small part of fover the more than 260,000 acres of the park, it is presumed that the valley was visited by few park-goers.

With construction of Trail Ridge Road in the early 1930s, much of Rocky Mountain National Park, including Hidden Valley, suddenly became easily accessible to thousands of visitors.

The untouched powder of Hidden Valley became a favorite area for a strong remnant of backcountry skiers.

The variety of challenges was appealing for beginners and backcountry enthusiasts alike. And, Trail Ridge Road happened to neatly divide the easier slopes below it, from the more advanced slopes above.

“It was an unofficial ski resort from the early 30s,” said Russ, a member of the Sled Dawgs, a longstanding group of volunteer safety rangers in Hidden Valley.

As the popularity of area caught wind, the park service, acting in the spirit of true American industrialism, sought to expand and commercialize it to visitors.

Park officials purchased the area from the Estes Park Recreation District and opened the Hidden Valley Ski Resort in 1955.

The resort included five lifts and a base lodge, which included restrooms, a cafeteria and a ski patrol headquarters. And, it soon became a popular destination for skiers of all types, as the range of difficulty within the slopes was evenly distributed and lift ticket prices were comparatively low.

“It was the ski resort in Colorado. No. 1.” said Jim Cope, a ranger with Sled Dawgs. “It was the only action.”

From 1955 to 1991, Hidden Valley Ski Resort was a popular destination for skiers and families. But, as a result of being just east of the Continental Divide, a boundary line that represents precipitation drainage between the Pacific Ocean and the Gulf of Mexico,

it was soon in competition with newer skiing spots to the west that generally received as much as 10 times the amount of snowfall in a given season.

At left top, Jim Cope, a ranger with Sled Dawgs at Hidden Valley. At left bottom, sledders take advantage of the snow at Hidden Valley. Next below, the T-Bar ski run at Hidden Valley.

Attempts by the resort’s operators to compensate the difference in snowfall with snow-making machines were foiled by lack of an ample water supply and eco-conscious park officials.

“Newer resorts got more snow fall, were on main roads and could develop the real estate at their bases,” said Larry Frederick, chief of interpretation and education at Rocky Mountain National Park. “Hidden Valley was just a traditional ski area, offering only a lodge and runs.”

Not being able to longer justify the increasingly large difference in snowfall, the resort eventually succumbed to financial difficulties in 1991 and its lifts were auctioned off.

Despite the closure, a few skiers kept coming and soon found for themselves an exclusive, nearly untouched playground of runs and trails. Some of the trails also serve mountain bikers in the summer.

In 2004, the National Park Service began a restoration project of the area at Hidden Valley that included the construction of a new warming hut with restrooms, a new (and smaller) parking lot, picnic areas and a designated area just for sledding, tubing and/or other means of sliding on snow.

The area can even accommodate weddings of up to 100 guests.

The park service also successfully has rehabilitated some of the natural areas of Hidden Valley, making it somewhat of a living parable about our country’s potential to correct environmental problems we see today.

“When they were restoring the area, scientists were able to determine that the wetlands underneath the parking lot were still alive,” said Kyle Patterson, public information officer for Rocky Mountain National Park. “This has been very nice, as we’re losing wetlands more and more in other parts of the country.”

While the area no longer offers the lifts or snow grooming services that it did when the resort existed, it has not lost its appeal. A given weekend during the ski season (October to March) brings hundreds of people to Hidden Valley to ski, sled, snowshoe, hike, snowboard, and to experience other winter recreational activities.

It’s also substantially cheaper and, for many visitors, just a short drive away. “Here you can buy an annual pass for $40 and come whenever you want,” Frederick explained. “At other resorts, you can spend $80 for just a day.”

At left top, no-parking sign at Hidden Valley is temporarily covered by an ice warning for visitors. At left bottom, the boundary point for snow play is marked with a red sign. Below, sledders wipeout as they glide downhill.

The snowplay area at the base is usually packed and iced over, making it ideal for sledding.

“We tell everybody that you must, by law, have fun,” said Russ during one of his shifts overlooking a family of sledders.

From the looks of things, most follow the rule well. Visitors freely move around the valley. Some hike half of the day in order to ski the runs that, up until the past two decades, were enjoyed by thousands of people on a given weekend.

Now, rather than crowds, lifts or lines, such skiers find open trails, quietness and, occasionally some very pristine powder.

“I’d call it skiing Colorado the old fashioned way,” said Cope. “There’s no lift here, you earn it.”


If You Go

• Rocky Mountain National Park is open 24 hours a day, year round.
• Park entrance fees are $20 per car or $10 per pedestrian/cyclist. Annual park passes start at $40.

Encounters with wildlife risky for visitors, animals

By ALEXANDRA ROLAND
School of Communication
University of Miami

ESTES PARK, Colo.--- In Rocky Mountain National Park, there are approximately 20-30 mountain lions, 350 big horn sheep, 600-800 elk, 500 deer and countless other native species.

Three million species of a different kind also frequent the valleys, mountains, camping grounds, and hiking trails of the national monument.

Humans.

With the constant traffic of mobile visitors and the omnipresence of the native residents, interaction often occurs. It is, however, when those encounters are too close in proximity or when the actions of both humans and animals become increasingly connected, that danger can occur.

A poster in the Backcountry Office that encourages visitors to “enjoy them (animals) at a distance” (Photos by Alex Roland).

Trying to get the perfect photograph of an animal in its habitat or leaving small bits of food to attract foraging creatures, human encounters with wildlife often provides visitors with more than which they bargained.

“The worst story I ever heard was of young parents with an infant and they spread peanut butter on the infant’s face to get pictures of the chipmunks licking it off,” said Dale Kosewick, seasonal manager of the Backcountry Office at Rocky Mountain National Park.

Although this may be an extreme case, human interplay with wildlife is a continual problem. Visitors come to the park in the hopes of catching a glimpse of an elk, or a deer grazing in a valley. At times, onlookers get too close.

But with more than 700 different species in the park, the paths of humans and animals are bound to cross. From moose and mule deer to chipmunks and marmots, the Rocky Mountains are full of life. Visitors have the unique opportunity to see these creatures in their own habitat and they are taking it.

At right, Dale Kosewick, seasonal Beaver Meadows Visitor Center Backcountry Office manager at Rocky Mountain National Park. Next, elk crossing the street in Estes Park. Next, elk near the side of a highway near the park entrance. And last, a poster in the Beaver Meadows Visitor Center explaining proper human and wildlife interaction.

Some animals are more territorial than others. The black bear is known to be bellicose at times. Male elks tend to be territorial and somewhat abrasive during the mating season in the fall. Yet, aggression is spurred when an animal feels that it or its space is threatened. Usually, that space is often invaded by humans or human structures.

For the wildlife, the man-made boundaries of roads, bridges or even hotels do not restrict or limit their movement and migration. However, as a result, as the animals stray close to these well-traveled and visitor populated fixtures within the park, human encounters are very common.

At the same time, humans have a duty to limit this interaction. Kosewick said that patrons have to be aware that they are visitors. Too much purposeful or accidental intrusion into the wildlife habitat poses risk for both animals and humans.

Brave visitors attempt to feed animals or deposit food on trails or in their used camping sites. This human food is, in fact, dangerous to animal health.

“They really do become addicted,” Park Ranger Susan Langdon said. “Then they end of having a stomach full of human food and they starve to death.”

The food left by humans, and eventually consumed by animals does not at all have a nourishing quality.

In fact, it fills the animal’s stomach, limiting the amount of appropriately accessible foods that the animal can then ingest and preventing natural foods from properly sustaining the its body.

“There’s a sign as you enter the national park and it says, feeding or approaching wildlife is prohibited,” Kosewick said.

Directly feeding the wildlife as well as carelessly leaving leftovers and garbage in and around campsites amplifies the issue. The black bears, for example, have become increasingly aggressive in their search for food because of this. Langdon said that they will even break into cars expecting to find human food. New protocol within the park has been adopted to help neutralize human carelessness and bear dependence on human food.

In 2009, the park issued a mandate for the use of bear canisters while utilizing camping sites. Campers are now required to lock their food in tightly sealed containers , preventing bears from foraging for food in the campsites and coming into close contact with individuals. These canisters are available for rent or purchase in Estes Park or at local sporting goods stores.

According to Langdon, informing the public is crucial.

“We are trying to do as much education as possible to stop feeding the wildlife,” she said. Volunteer programs such as “Chowbusters,” was put into place to stress the mantra, “Leave No Trace,” a detailed portion of the “Rules and Regulations” brochure for the backcountry office.

The program also encourages visitors to minimize their impact on the section of the park they are visiting and the employ the use of ethics when spending time in the park and nearby wildlife.

Habitat disruption and animal health aside, humans also endanger themselves by straying too close to the wildlife.

“Often we have to warn people about approaching the animals. They don't realize what a large animal will do to them,” Kosewick said.

Several years ago within the park a 10-year-old child died because of an encounter with a mountain lion.

“They (the parents) let their child leave food along the trail to feed the little animals,” Kosewick said. His food attracted little animals, which attracted the mountain lion, and then he was there, just the right size. The child died on his own asphyxiate.”

While such incidences are rare, the park rangers stress the importance of caution. Rocky Mountain National Park is an aesthetic fixture in the Midwest of America. Visitors come from everywhere to capture the park’s scenic views, breathtaking landscapes, and raw wildlife existence. However, according to park rangers, humans must respect their place as visitors for their own safety and the safety of the animals.

“It's a shared existence and they were here first,” Kosewick said.

 

If You Go

Suggested Precautions

• While camping, use canisters to secure your food as stipulated by Rocky Mountain National Park policy.
• Make sure to leave no trace after you have used your campsite. Pick up any garbage and dispose of it properly.
• When hiking, stay on the designated trails with your party.
• Avoid water sources at daybreak or nightfall.
• Observe animals from afar and respect their space. If an animal notices your presence, than you are most likely too close.

For more information visit http://www.nps.gov/romo or call the Rocky Mountain National Park Visitor Center at (970) 586-1206.

Park offers guided tours of Maritime Heritage Trail

Local pioneer, his family called park island home

Fascell Visitor Center steals park’s spotlight

Treasure trove of wonders await snorkelers

Near the islands, Ventura offers many hidden gems

By ALICIA ABALO
School of Communication
University of Miami

VENTURA, Calif., - - - From its shops to its eateries, Main Street in Downtown Ventura is speckled with hidden finds.

 

“I’ve lived here for almost 25 years,” said Ventura resident Diane Creeley.  “I’ve never been to a more genuine town, and honestly, I hate to even leave it.”

 

Early Californian relics permeate the downtown area of Ventura.  Historic homes, boutiques and restaurants adorn the palm tree-lined road of Main Street.

 

Click on the video at left to view a slide show about Main Street and Downtown Ventura, Calif., photographed and prepared by writer Alicia Abalo.

What sets Ventura apart from other old-fashioned towns are its unique merchants, one-of-a-kind dining experiences, and overall friendly demeanor of its residents.  Downtown Ventura embraces all things eclectic while still preserving real California heritage.

 

In the early 1950s, Downtown Ventura was a major hub of life and activity, with a booming oil industry and a thriving retail market.  Locals and tourists alike couldn’t get enough of the town’s vintage essence, but commercial big names took advantage of its popularity, invading the pristine streets with brands and chains.

 

“The little guys are definitely making a comeback,” said Anna Johnson, manager of Luxe Emporium, a French boutique in the heart of Downtown Ventura.  “Downtown has been trying to restore itself for 30 years.”

 

 

At right, Ventura residents Selina Granger and Diane Creeley enjoy a bottle of pinot grigio at Paradise Pantry. Below, We Olive's well-educated staff offers samples of biscuits and cookies that are made using olive oil instead of butter. (Photos by Alicia Abalo).

With its antique chandeliers, pink and white striped walls, and affordable price tags, Luxe Emporium is proof that Downtown Ventura is going back to its roots.

 

There are many shops along Main Street that, like Luxe Emporium, are devoid of meddling by corporate America.  Neighboring the French boutique is Le Monde Emporium, a classic clothing shop with a contemporary edge.

 

“I try to provide the types of clothing that I would like to wear, at prices I can afford!” said Monde owner Sandi Hood.  “At the end of the day, it’s not about making money.  It’s about being proud of what you put out there.”

 

The stores on Main Street aren’t exclusive to vintage clothing. Niche markets like the all-British import shop Rosie Lee Imports and the small Californian chain We Olive have found homes in Downtown Ventura.

 

With only eight locations in the world, WeOlive chose Main Street to be one of its few locales.  

 

WeOlive is a gourmet market that provides fresh and delicious olive oils to its consumers while also educating them about the “benefits of the olive.”

Their collection ranges from standard extra-virgin oils to exotic flavors like blood orange and lavender.

 

“You can really make anything you want with olive oil, and it will probably be even more delicious than before,” said Steve Tobey, owner of Ventura’s branch of We Olive.  “You can try anything and everything before you buy it here; no one walks out of here empty-handed.”

 

The shop offers a complimentary tasting bar where dozens of olive oils and balsamic vinegars are available for sampling.  Aside from olive oil, We Olive also sells  tasty tapenades, mustards, and chutneys that are laid out on round tables throughout the store, accompanied by bread and toothpicks for convenient sampling.

 

Tasting seems to be a popular theme in Downtown Ventura as Main Street is also the site of numerous wine shops.  The Westside Cellar provides intimate fine dining, gourmet cheese, and live music on Sundays.  Wednesdays and Saturdays are host to wine tastings, offering more than 300 wines from which to choose.

 

For those seeking a more casual setting, Paradise Pantry specializes in family wineries and has tastings nearly every day of the week.  In addition to its wines and cheeses, the shop is stocked with handcrafted chocolates, stuffed olives, and cured meats.

 

At left, Le Monde Emporium offers chic and affordable clothing for women. Below, the Anacapa Brewing Co., is Ventura's only restaurant and brewery, serving fresh ales and lagers.

“This place feels like I’m at home, only with a much better wine rack!” said Selina Granger, a Ventura resident and Paradise Pantry regular.

 

For those who prefer their barley over grapes, Main Street’s Anacapa Brewing Co. serves “hand-crafted” ales and lagers created by its head brewer Adam Ball.

 

Along with homemade beers, Ventura’s only restaurant/brewery or “brewpub” has a reputation for savory menu and top-notch service. 

 

“The waiters and bartenders are always very friendly,” said Anacapa Brewing enthusiast Raoul Gerge. “I usually order the chicken sandwich, but I tried the filet medallions tonight and the mushroom chipotle sauce was insanely good.”

 

Great eats are easy to find along Main Street, which offers something for everyone.  Tipps Thai Cuisine is heralded by locals as the best Thai food on the West Coast; the Viking Drive-Inn offers fried foods in record time; the Andres Savory Café has simple but delicious European cuisine, and Blenders in the Grass provides inexpensive but nutritious smoothies and fruit juices.

 

With its shops, bars, and restaurants, Downtown Ventura is a stop that would benefit any passing traveler.  Although modest on its surface, true reward is found in discovering what lies beneath.

 

“I moved here in the ‘80s,” Granger said.  “Two decades later, my husband and I are still wandering around like tourists!”

 

 

If You Go

 

Where: East Main Street, Ventura, Calif., 93001, is located about 50 miles northwest of Los Angeles

 

Description: Casual, palm-lined streets, Victorian houses, and 19^th century architecture painted in pale pastels

 

Where to Stop:

• Luxe Emporium – 40 E. Main St., 805-643-LUXE (5893), http://www.lux-emporium.com
• Le Monde Emporium – 542 E. Main St., 805-648-7463
• Rosie Lee Imports Inc – 673 E. Main St., 805-643-5832, http://www.rosieleeimports.com
• We Olive – 294 E. Main St., 805-648-6166, http://www.weolive.com
• The Westside Cellar – 222 E. Main St., 805-641-3500, http://www.westsidecellar.com
• Paradise Pantry – 677 E. Main St., 805-641-9440, http://www.paradisepantry.com
• Anacapa Brewing Co. – 472 E. Main St., 805-643-2337, http://www.anacapabrewing.com

 

Parking: More than 2,900 free parking spaces in 14 off-street parking lots and along the bordering streets of Thompson Boullevard, Poll Street, and Santa Clara Street.

Trail to Smugglers Cove provides panoramic views

By ALICIA ABALO
School of Communication
University of Miami

CHANNEL ISLANDS, Calif., --- Perhaps Robert Frost had just paid a visit to Santa Cruz before writing “The Road Not Taken.”

 

Hiking from Scorpion Ranch to Smugglers Cove is a pure example of ‘taking the road less traveled by.’ Untouched by modern industry, the trail is laden with uneven  rock and steep changes in altitude. The winding path guides hikers through the rolling “hills” of Santa Cruz Island, some of whose peaks exceed 1,400 feet.

 

Click on the video at right to view an audio slide show about Santa Cruz Island hiking narrated by writer Alicia Abalo and photographed by Alicia Abalo, Nicole List, and Zongchao Li.

The nine-mile, round-trip hike is difficult but rewarding, with panoramic views of the island and its surrounding waters.

 

Sabina Faulhaber is a volunteer for the Channel Islands National Park who offers Santa Cruz visitors a “more challenging” hiking experience. She knows the trail well and is a useful guide, having trekked it more than 10 times.

 

“You’ll definitely feel it in your legs the next day. It’s like you’ve run 100 miles on a treadmill,” she said. “The views are worth it, though.”

 

At left, Smugglers Cove, the destination of hikers on the Cove Trail hike, where the ocean and rocky beach meet (Photos by Alicia Abalo). Below, a glimspe of Anacapa Island from Santa Cruz Island.

 

The trail is only a few hundred yards away from Scorpion Harbor Pier, the drop-off point for visitors taking the Island Packers ferry. The main road leads directly to Scorpion Ranch, a well-preserved farmhouse shrouded by palm trees and lined by a wooden fence covered with red and yellow flowers. To the left is a clearly marked trail; a wide, old ranch road that climbs the side of the hike’s first hill.

 

Although smooth at first, the road narrows quickly. Within the first mile, it begins to coil more tightly around the hill. Loose rocks begin to crumble under the weight of each footstep.

 

Along the trail, large clusters of white stand out against the tan, grassy slopes. Faulhaber said they’re century-old relics, small boulders that farmers would throw aside into piles while planting crops.

 

Stories are as much a part of the trail as the wooden signs that guide it.

Halfway through the hike, a misplaced-looking grove of cypress trees grows in a patch of flat, desert-like land. Island folklore says that rancher Justinian Caire planted the trees for his daughter to read beneath, a piece of shade among sun-soaked acres.

 

Caire owned much of the island’s land in the late 1800s. According to one story, he was also a romantic.

The fennel that now grows freely up the curves of the hillside is said to have stemmed from a single gift given to his Italian wife, who had grown homesick.

Caire travelled to Italy and brought back a small fennel plant for his wife’s spice garden, so that a piece of her native country would always be near her.

 

The most interesting plants on the island need no legend. “That’s Island Deerweed,” Faulhaber said, pointing to a desolate cluster of brown, six-foot-tall stems too thick to be considered grass. “When they bloom, they’ll have bright red and yellow flowers all along their sides.”

 

Island Deerweed is one of 42 plants that are indigenous to the Channel Islands, nine of which grow only on Santa Cruz Island. The trail is alive with clusters of growing buckwheat, mustard seed, and morning glory, but none look like their mainland counterparts.

 

At right, tour guide Sabine Faulhaber walks with visitor Nicole List along a wide section of trail. Below, a trail marker helps visitors find their way.

 

“What’s interesting is that Santa Cruz has never been attached to the mainland,” said Tara Brown, a volunteer for Island Packers, “It actually rose out of the ocean five million years ago.” Isolated from the continent, the plants and wildlife evolved on the island with little outside influence.

 

As the trail reaches its summit, the Anacapa islands come into view, their ragged peaks piercing the pale blue sky. With nearly the entire east side of Santa Cruz visible, the trail suddenly takes a sharp descent. Reduced to baby-steps, the final leg of the journey is a slow crawl down a near-vertical slope.

 

Approaching Smugglers Cove, dozens of olive trees welcome hikers. Their dark, hunter-green leaves are a stark contrast to the surrounding palette of brown and gray. In the distance, there is only twinkling turquoise.

 

Set on the edge of the island, Smugglers Cove is a U-shaped bay that cups the rolling waves of the Pacific Ocean.

 

Although its beach is a rugged terrain of sharp rocks, it sits directly across from the three islands of Anacapa, separated only by miles of clear, blue ocean. The inlet is secluded and quiet; the winds of the Pacific lulled by the towering, jagged hills surrounding the cove.

 

Cloaked by hilltops and over 20 miles from the California mainland, Smugglers Cove was a perfect place for bootleggers during the 18^th and 19^th centuries. Any suspicious “merchandise,” could be stashed in the valley’s craggy hollows, earning the scenic strip of land its namesake.

 

The steep, down-hill descent to the cove is a brutal climb on the way back, but if you ask anyone who’s ever hiked the trail to Smuggler’s Cove, they’ll tell you the same thing: The views are worth it.

At right, the three islands of Anacapa are visible from this portion of the Smugglers Cove trail. Below, tan grass and barren plants create a desert-like impression.

If You Go

 

Where: Scorpion Ranch to Smugglers Cove, Santa Cruz Island, 4.5 miles each way.

 

When: The island is open to visitors year-round, but due to the difficulty of the trail, the heat of summer would not be recommended.

Early spring is ideal, the plants along the trail will be blossoming and there will still be a light breeze.

 

What to bring: Lots of water and food that does not spoil! Hiking boots are ideal, and bring a backpack.

The climate fluctuates during the hike, so bring a light jacket that you can take off if you get hot. Don’t forget to bring a camera and binoculars, if you have them.

 

Visit http://islandpackers.com or call 805-642-1393 for more information on boat tours, travel times, and pricing.

 

Park fishing offers visitors a chance to slow down

Zion trails provide wide range of scenic experiences

By JENNA KING
School of Communication
University of Miami

SPRINGDALE, Utah --- Thousands of visitors head to Zion National Park each year and hiking is the most popular activity at the park. Every day hundreds head out into the canyons in search of beauty and adventure.

With 14 trails to choose from, everyone from seasoned hikers to beginners who rarely walk farther than from their front door to their mailboxes can find something to do.

The Weeping Rock trail is perfect for beginners This paved trail is a half mile round trip trek that takes hikers up a small incline to the “weeping rocks” – a dripping mountain spring. This trail is short, but it has a few minor drop-offs so those who are extremely afraid of heights should beware.

Other beginner-friendly trails include the lower Emerald Pools rail, the Pa’rus Trail, and the Riverside Walk. Both the Pa’rus Trail and the Riverside Walk are wheelchair accessible.

The most popular (and steep) trail in the park is the Angels Landing Trail. The trail is about five miles round trip and takes roughly four hours to complete. Its an extremely strenuous hike and not for the faint of heart.

At right, a hiker negotiates the trail at Angel's Landing in Zion Canyon, Zion National Park (Photos by Jenna King). Below, Observation Point in Zion Canyon.

 

The last half-mile is a narrow steep passageway where chains have been added for balance and support. The pay-off however is a breathtaking view of the canyon that can be taken to the next level by continuing up a ways to the highest spot in the park – Observation Point.

Individuals and families travel from all over to take part in the beauty of nature that is Zion. For instance, the Tracy family, Laura and her two daughters Roxanne and Joleigh, came over from Las Vegas (about a three-hour drive) for an afternoon hike day.

“There is a lot of good hiking around us. We like to come up here to see fall colors because we don’t get them in Vegas,” said Laura Tracy.

Others plan on staying at the lodge located inside the park and spending a number of days exploring the trails and seeing what Zion has to offer. Newly weds Steven and Kim Davis made the trek down from Paige, Ariz.

“We heard there was a national park here and we’re big hikers, so we figured we’d come check it out,” said Steven, “We’re thinking we might come back again to do some camping.”

Some people travel from much farther than the surrounding states. Kurt and Evette Luders traveled from France to visit Kurt’s family that lives in the area.

Kurt moved to France to be with Evette (who only speaks French) and is now showing her the area where he grew up – which, of course, includes a little bit of hiking.

“Well, hiking’s the thing to do here. I won’t say you have no choice, but it it’s really the way to get to know the place and I wanted to show it to [my wife],” said Kurt Luders.

When hiking, there are a few things you must always remember. First of all, always bring water. Even if you are going on a short hike and it’s cold outside, you can still become dehydrated.

Wear proper shoes. A good sturdy pair of sneakers or hiking books will go a long way in keeping you comfortable and preventing injury.

At right, a Zion National Park trail hiker walks through shallow water at the Canyon Narrows. Below, park visitors Kurt and Evette Luders walk down one of the walking trails in Zion Canyon on a fall day. Last, a visitor reads the information sign at Weeping Rock Trailhead in the canyon.

 

Always stretch before you begin your hike. Simply throwing your pack onto your back can cause strain and minor injury if you aren’t careful.

If it’s hot outside, there are a few things you can do to stay cool. According to the Center for Disease Control, clothing is always an important way to keep yourself cool.

“Choose lightweight, light-colored, loose-fitting clothing. In the hot sun, a wide-brimmed hat will provide shade and keep the head cool,” the CDC advises.

Wear a hat. It’s nearly impossible to get sunscreen on your scalp and your scalp will burn.

Also, a hat helps prevent heat stroke by keeping the nerve endings in your head cool.

Take breaks, but don’t stop long enough for your legs to get stiff.

Bring a walking stick. It doesn’t make you look lazy or weak. They really can help lessen the load on your knees and ankles and give you better balance (safety first.)

Snacks are important to keep your blood sugar levels up to keep you from fainting. Fruit, nuts and crackers are all good ideas (hence the idea of “trail mix”.)

Never step on something that you can step over, and never climb over something you can walk around.

Any hike to the top of a mountain must start early to avoid afternoon thunderstorms.

No matter how close you are to a high destination, you must turn away if lightning is seen or thunder heard.

These are just a few helpful tips if you plan on hiking on your trip to Zion, or anywhere else for that matter. Remember, safety first and have fun.

As Kurt Luder put it, hiking in the best way to really get to know the place and to experience the beautiful nature that is Zion National Park.

 

If You Go:

• Website: http://www.nps.gov/zion
• Weather: http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?zoneid=UTZ019
• Directions: http://www.nps.gov/zion/planyourvisit/directions.htm
• Food and lodging: http://www.nps.gov/zion/planyourvisit/food-and-lodging.htm

Lodge offers central location for Zion visitors

By JENNA KING
School of Communication
University of Miami

SPRINGDALE, Utah --- Imagine waking up and hearing silence. No honking cars, no sirens, not even the sound of a ringing cell phone. Then imagine stepping out onto your balcony and finding yourself surrounded by majestic sandstone mountains.

This is a reality for guests of Zion National Park Lodge, operated and managed by Xanterra.

Click on the video at the left to view a slideshow about activities at Zion National Park photographed and prepared by Lindsay Brown.

The lodge is tucked away inside of the giant park and is ideal for those who want an all-encompassing experience in Zion. The park, which spans 229 square miles, is ideal for anyone who enjoys hiking, rock climbing, or simply taking in the peace and beauty of the great outdoors. Zion Lodge is the only hotel located inside the park, and is perfect for someone who wants to be engulfed in nature.

“Literally, right across the street is some of the trail heads to some of the best trails in the park,” said Jason Stovall, the lodge’s operations manager. “Another reason why Zion Lodge is great is to be able to wake up and look up and see the canyon walls right from your room.”

Visitors may be overwhelmed by the immense size of the park, but there is a simple way to get around that doesn’t involve hiking the entire canyon.

At right, the main building of Zion Lodge. The lodge is located in the center of Zion Canyon, offering close-up views of the park. (Photos by Zongchao Li). Below, a towering rock wall rises above the canyon floor across from the lodge.

“There is a shuttle bus that you can take all over the park that runs from 6:30 in the morning to 10 o’clock at night,” suggested Yula Carlson, a Russian exchange student who runs the front desk of the lodge at night.

The lodge has been a staple in Zion National Park since 1926. Gilbert Stanley Underwood designed the building to have a rustic feel, similar to the homes of the settlers that still inhabited the canyons at the time. The buildings featured less stone work than others at the time, focusing on large whole logs in a “studs-out” style. Sadly, the original lodge burned down in 1966.

“So the story goes, the building was hastily rebuilt in 100 days, and has been remodeled a number of times since,” said the hotel’s Front Desk Manager Ronald Stenfors.

The most recent remodeling occurred in 1990, with the goal of restoring the appearance of the lodge to its original 1920s look. Have no fear, however – the structure of the building today is much sturdier than the original.

The lodge is comprised of three different types of rooms. There are standard hotel rooms with either a king or two queen beds, suites that have a king sized bed as well as a spacious living room area, and cabins that feature fireplaces as well as two double beds and full amenities. The entire lodge (including the main lobby) feature free wireless Internet – which is especially helpful because there is no cell phone service anywhere in the park, including the lodge. Vacationers should consider downloading a program like Skype.

“For food and beverage, we have the Red Rock Grill, which is upstairs in the main lobby, which is kind of a casual dining experience,” said Stovall. “During the [Spring/Summer] season, we have the Castledome Café which serves pizza, hamburgers, hot dogs – fast service food. We also have a coffee bar and for retail, we have a gift shop.”

At left, Native American handicrafts are silhoutted in a window display in the Zion Lodge Gift Shop. Below, deer graze in a meadow near the lodge. Last, the lodge is outlined against the colors of trees in the fall.

Something to remember about the Red Rock Grill is that you can order sack breakfasts and lunches to take with you as you hike the trails and explore the park. Also, the coffee bar features everything from typical coffee shop staples such as Café Americana and Lattes to Hot Chocolate and pastries.

In the gift shop there are a plethora of trinkets hand-crafted by Navajo Indians, as well as your standard t-shirts, candy, CDs and even walking sticks help support the weary hiker.

According to Stenfors, his favorite part of the lodge is the lobby where he spends most of his time.

“It’s just so interesting to be here and to see and meet people from I think just about every country on this planet,” he said.

Some of those people have even been famous dignitaries and other notable celebrities, or what Stefors calls “those that would elicit a newspaper article.” One such guest stuck out to him in the more recent years.

“A few years ago, when she was First Lady, Laura Bush vacationed here,” said Stefors.

Anyone visiting the parks should consider joining the ranks of the former first lady and check out Zion Lodge. You won’t be disappointed.

 

If You Go

• Where: Zion National Park
• When: Open year round
• Website: http://www.zionlodge.com
• Address: Zion Lodge, Zion National Park, Springdale, UT  84764

 

Directions:

From Lake Powell:

• Take Highway 89 West to Kanab.
• Proceed North on Highway 89 to Mt. Carmel.
• Turn left on Highway 9 to Zion National Park.
• Follow signs to the Lodge.
• Approximately 2 hours 30 mins. / 117 miles.

From Salt Lake City:

• I-15 South to exit 27 (Toquerville exit) which is SR 17.
• Follow SR 17 to Highway 9.
• Turn left to Zion National Park.
• Approximately Five hours 45 minutes. / 320 miles.
  

From Grand Canyon North Rim:

• Go North on Highway 67 to Jacob Lake.
• Turn left to Highway 89A to Kanab.
• Take Highway 89 to Mt. Carmel junction.
• Turn left (West) on Highway 9 to Zion National Park.
• Follow signs to the Lodge.
• Approximately Two hours 30 minutes. / 119 miles.

From Bryce Canyon Lodge:

• Take Highway 63 to Highway 12
• Highway 12 to Highway 89.
• Highway 89 to Highway 9, West to Zion Lodge.
• Approximately Two hours / 73 miles

From Grand Canyon South Rim:

• Go East on Highway 64 to the junction with Highway 89.
• Take Highway 89 North to Highway 9.
• Go West on Highway 9 to Zion Lodge.
• Approximately Five hours / 230 miles.

From Las Vegas:

• Take I-15 North to UT Highway 9 (exit 16 off of I-15).
• Highway 9 comes into the park - follow signs to the Lodge.
• Approximately Three hours / 153 miles.

Reservations: Open 7 a.m. - 7 p.m., Mountain time, daily. Closed on Thanksgiving, Christmas Day and New Year's Day. For same day reservations or to reach a Lodge guest call 435.772.7700.

Channel Islands geology tells of rich history

By NICOLE LIST
School of Communication
University of Miami

CHANNEL ISLANDS--Besides the titillating history of the Channel Islands, many visitors to the area don’t know that the present-day masses were once positioned in another location quite a time ago.

 

Geologists commonly refer to plate tectonics to describe this Pacific Ocean phenomenon. This is a process throughout time where landmasses shift within the Earth’s lithosphere. The globe is devised of massive moving puzzle pieces, marine and land alike.

 

Off the coast of California’s Santa Barbara lies a slew of islands that make up the modern-day Channel Islands National Park. They are named Anacapa, Santa Cruz, San Miguel, Santa Rosa, and Santa Barbara islands.

 

 

The San Andreas Fault runs through Southern California, including just east of the area where the Channel Islands are located (Map courtesy of the National Park Service).

 

"The land mass underwater goes deeper than what's visible but it seems to keep pushing up," said Sabine Faulhaber, a National Park Service volunteer at the park since 2004.

 

The islands are primarily made up of sediment rock, synonymous to sea rock. White areas can be seen in and around the high altitude hills and mountains. The rock under the sea of the islands goes further down than the rock exceeding sea level.

 

"The North American plate and Pacific plate grind together and push up the land," said Channel Islands Park Ranger Bill Faulkner.

 

Most of the plate movement is due to the fact that California is a hyperactive magnetic landmass.

 

"In 30 million years, the uplift will eventually stop. At that point, erosional forces will take over," said Faulkner.

 

The islands' ecosystems won't be affected by the land movements. In the far future is when the islands will undergo major geological changes, according to Faulkner.

 

The Channel Islands National Park offers a myriad of methods for educating the public on this phenomenon. Information can be obtained from the Channel Islands Visitors Center, from park rangers and park volunteers.

 

For more information on the islands visit http://www.nps.gov/chis/.

 

Paramount Ranch offers look into movie history

By KELLY BURNS
School of Communication
University of Miami

THOUSAND OAKS, Calif. ---Take a step back in history. Imagine a world where men on horseback lined the old dirt roads, where gunfights and runaway stage carts were the norm, and where local heroes filled the streets.

 

While these images and more can be relived in old Hollywood westerns, the location of some of these films and the history behind them are still alive. For a chance to undercover a bit of film history in the United States, look no further than Paramount Ranch at the Santa Monica Mountains National Recreation Area.

 

Click on the video at the left to view an audio slide show about the filmmaking history of Paramount Ranch, narrated by Park Ranger Mike Malone, photographed by Kelly Burns and Bruce Garrison and prepared by writer Kelly Burns.

“The movie ranches and surrounding area are rich in history,” said Marc Wanamaker, an authority on motion picture history, a film consultant and founder of the Bison Archives. “I have researched back to the time when the Chumash Indians lived on the land.”

 

The ranch was bought in 1927 by Paramount Films. While owned by Paramount, the land was not used as a movie set. In 1953 the ranch was purchased by William Hertz. He then built the western town that is still around today.

 

“These ranches were built were built on rancho property on Indian lands,” said Wanamaker. “The irony is that the films made on these ranches were made about the early California and the Indians. They make movies on the things that actually happened at the ranch.

At right, visitors travel on horseback through the western town set of Paramount Ranch in Santa Monica Mountains National Recreation Area (Photos by Kelly Burns). Below, this old hotel is part of the western town. Visitors can walk through the town or take a tour with a ranger upon request.

 

Soon, television shows and movies began using the ranch for westerns. Because of the set up of the land, the ranch had a versatility to reflect all kinds of landscapes.

 

Sometime after the ranch was sold and turned into a racetrack.  Only 18 months after that, due to accidents, the ranch began a series of changes. Finally the National Park Service purchased a section of the land in 1980.

 

“Film is such a powerful medium and a large part of the American Culture,” said Mike Malone, Volunteer Program manager and park ranger. “The acquisition of the land by the National Park Service was a great addition.”

 

Known as the park’s unofficial film historian, Malone dedicates much his free time to researching and discovering the history of Paramount Ranch.

 

“I have always had a passion for films. As an only child growing up in New York, I had a lot of free time,” said Malone. “When I started working here I was able to research for a purpose.”

 

The ranch has been used for long running television series “Dr. Quinn, Medicine Woman” and various films. Some of the most well-known movies made here include: “The Virginian,” “Gunsmoke,” and “The Adventures of Tom Sawyer.”

 

While large filming has slowly decreased due to the ailing economy, the ranch has been used in recent years for scenes in smaller projects such as the “Lake House,” the “Dukes of Hazzard,” “Van Helsing” and the television series, the “O.C.”

 

“We’re open almost every day for visitors to come and give tours,” said Malone. “Upon request we can even open up some of the buildings for walk-throughs.”

 

And while the movie-making dates are not broadcast to the public, if you happen to venture onto the ranch while filming is in session, visitors are permitted to watch from a distance.

 

The ranch, however, has more to offer than just views of popular western town and film sets. The park features events such as the monthly program entitled “Movie Magic” that teaches visitors about the making of the films on the ranch and stories behind certain movie scenes.

 

And, like most parks in the area, the site is great for hiking, picnicking and horseback riding. Also, some areas have become known for their diverse plant life, with wildflower viewing being one of the most popular activities.

 

“Because of our Mediterranean climate, we have flowers in California that you won’t find anywhere else,” said Tony Valois, a botanist with the National Park Service and creator of the wildflower identification database, used to identify species of wildflowers in the Santa Monica Mountains National Recreation Area.

 

“Visitors with an iPhone can also check for identification, using the application while hiking,” said Valois.

 

Even though Paramount Ranch is only a small aspect of the entire recreation area, but has a lot to offer all on its own.

 

“These towns are created around their studios. The movie industry had a great impact on the area around them,” said Wanamaker. “When it comes to paramount ranch it’s not just a movie ranch, it’s a cultural landmark.”

A castor bean flower, not native to California, blooms on the Paramount Ranch site.

 

If You Go

 

Paramount Ranch is open daily from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. The park is closed on major holidays.  

 

There are ranger-led programs as scheduled. Tours are available upon request. Call 805-370-2301

 

The best time of the year to visit for wildflower viewing is early spring. To see which flowers are in bloom throughout the year, visit: http://www.researchlearningcenter.org/bloom/

 

Also visit http://www.nps.gov/samo for a program to identify flowers in the area by size, shape and color. The program can also be downloaded as an iPhone app.

 

For horse rentals for use at Paramount Ranch visit http://www.maliburiders.com or http://www.rockingkhorserentals.com.

 

For similar movie ranches/sites check out Malibu Creek State Park’s Twentieth Century Fox Ranch. Visit http://www.parks.ca.gov for more information.

 

For more information, the Santa Monica Mountain NRA Visitor Center in Thousand Oaks, Calif., is open every day from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Call for directions. 805-370-2301.

Whale watching popular activity in Channel Islands

By NICOLE LIST
School of Communication
University of Miami